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Rags and Mags (www.ragsandmags.com), the comic-blog that I created with illustrator Danielle Meder (www.finalfashion.ca) has enjoyed some wonderful press (http://ragsandmags.com/press-and-praise/). Today we were highlighted in the T.O. section of The Globe and Mail, which made our weekend. We’re thankful for the attention we get from journalists, bloggers, and readers and I’m happy to say that the praise is genuine since we haven’t had a traditional PR strategy.
I figure that if you’re a new designer trying to get your name out, you’d love to get your name into The Globe and Mail, National Post, or other publications, you’re wondering how we did it. Our initial PR strategy was simply “networking” since formal press releases have saturated inboxes. Since Rags and Mags isn’t formal, we figured a more natural, social communication stands out.
We deliberately launched our site quietly a week before L’Oréal Fashion Week and linked to our blogger friends to see if they’d notice us. They did. Then we made up simple Rags and Mags cards to distribute at Fashion Week. During the week, we talked to almost everyone we could about our new endeavour, hoping they’d go visit the site. They did, and we slowly learned that we had a fan base of dedicated fashion insiders, which was our goal. Our strategy is not about reaching the masses; we are reaching out to specific people.
We didn’t issue a standard press release until recently, when we launched a contest for readers to style Much Music Video Awards outfits for our two characters, Max and Lucinda. We chose that route because we had something visceral to offer (in this case, a contest). As Danielle says, “The ‘Hi we exist’ pitches don’t give the media anything ‘newsworthy’ to grab on to – plus people develop an immunity to people who pitch without a point.”
We received mentions in TFI News and NOW, which increased our readership. The TFI News announcement was especially helpful.
Now we’re exploring new PR ideas as our site grows (if you’re a new reader, click on “Start Here: At The Beginning” or “Who’s Who”), but from this experience I have some PR advice for you:
1. Make sure you have a unique product. It will get people talking.
2. Start small (unless you have a large budget).
3. You can get your name out easily and inexpensively through blogs. Comment on sites that you like and admire and build a relationship. Bloggers notice readers and comments.
I received an e-mail today from a TFI Member and reader of this blog wondering if I have any recommendations for silk screeners in Toronto. Can you help?
If not Toronto, can you provide any advice for finding and working with silk screeners in general? Your suggestions are appreciated.
It’s really interesting to attend a completely indie event right after a completely corporate event; they have such different atmospheres. Yesterday it was Forever 21 and CoverGirl, today it was Eco Bags at Keep Six Contemporary art gallery (http://keep6c.com/main/).
The Keep Six launch was obviously lower key than the previous night’s affair, but each event knew its audience and catered to it. It took me a while to understand and accept why anyone would pay over $100 for a canvas bag, but it was art and making an ecological statement all rolled into one event.
I wondered how I could mention this event to you because I don’t think that ecologically conscious shoppers are necessarily the people who could spend over $100 on a bag. They would re-use existing bags, so I think it would be a bad business idea to charge a lot of money for an eco-bag. I guess Anya Hindmarch’s “This Is Not a Plastic Bag” bag would be an exception. Another exception would be an art collector.
An Eco Bag as art object? My mind is still trying to get around it, but I figured out a way to link this event to you fashion business owners with an ecologically and socially conscious agenda. I have a magazine/website for you. It’s called Good (www.goodmagazine.com) and while it doesn’t deal with fashion, reading through it might give you ideas on how to create an ethical business.
Tonight CoverGirl and Forever 21 combined forces to highlight summer trends and they did this by bringing in some well-known Canadian names: CoverGirl Makeup Pro Paul Venoit, Canada’s Next Top Model Rebecca Hardy, and Celeb Gossip Lainey.
I don’t know what to tell you about this event that would be different than any other corporate event I’ve blogged about. When you have the funds, you can get the names, drinks, hors d’oeuvres, and gift bags to make your guests happy. It was a nice event that was coordinated well, with competent door people and staff. We learned about summer trends and now I’m telling you about it, so it was effective.
I can’t remember if I’ve mentioned Etsy (www.etsy.com) already, but if I can’t remember, then neither can you, so I’m going to mention it now. It’s an online boutique that has been recommended to me by many new business owners. They say that it is an easy, inexpensive way to set up an online boutique, so if you’ve got a small DIY business, you might want to check it out.
With all my “club” posts this week, I suppose I should have titled this one “Carolyn’s Seminar Club”. I got tired of writing “club”, though, so you got stuck with this title.
Anyway, what timing: I wrote about fashion PR on Tuesday and today I received a TFI announcement for the next seminar, DIY Press Kits. Fashion PR veteran Nina Budman will be leading this seminar, so I’m sure it will be useful for new business owners who cannot afford a publicist.
Did you know that you can attend even if you aren’t a TFI member? Call TFI Admin for more information (416.971.7117).
NP and The Globe
Hermès opened a new store on Toronto’s Bloor Street on Tuesday and Christian Blanckaert, Executive Vice-President, International Affairs, was there. So were some excellent journalists who covered the event from fashion and business perspectives, musing on what luxury means in this economy. You should read Nathalie Atkinson’s article in the National Post and the story by Jennifer Wells in the Report on Business in the Globe and Mail.
Brazen Careerist: The New Rules for Success
A speaker at a panel discussion recommended the book, Brazen Careerist: The New Rules for Success (http://www.amazon.com/Brazen-Careerist-New-Rules-Success/dp/0446578649). I picked it up and recommend it to you.
It’s useful for people looking for work or looking to improve their job satisfaction and productivity. It’s also useful for people like me who have tried a few different things and are building a career mosaic rather than a linear path. I appreciated the chapters titled, “Detours Are the Route to Happiness” and “Corporate Life Is Too Risky”. The “Risky” chapter is all about entrepreneurship and I liked the list of entrepreneurial traits:
1. Have knowledge of your market;
2. Build an extensive network;
3. Be committed to the business; and
4. Be ready to fail fast and move on.
I can relate to the fourth point and the first sentences after it was made: “Most business leaders fail once or twice before hitting it big. Think of failure as a necessary career step and don’t trip; recognize when things are going poorly, fail fast, learn, and get another idea.”
I’m happy to report that with my fashion company, I recognized, failed fast, and learned. Now I’m always thinking of other ideas.
If you can’t afford the book or don’t have time to read it at the moment, you might want to read author Penelope Trunk’s blog (http://blog.penelopetrunk.com/). You will learn a lot from her business advice.
Eleven Minutes
Remember when I wrote that TFI was going to present Eleven Minutes (http://www.jaymccarrolldocumentary.com/)? It’s the documentary about Project Runway Season One winner, Jay McCarroll as he plans his New York Fashion Week debut show and it is amazing.
For anyone with runway dreams who is interested in starting a fashion business, this is the perfect film. It shows the ups, downs, ins, and outs of planning a collection, finding financiers, organizing a show; how difficult and rewarding it can be.
For those of you who don’t dream of making the clothes, but promoting them, you’d be interested in the large role that publicist Nancy Kane plays, but it was her boss at PR firm, People’s Revolution, Kelly Cutrone, who you should probably read about (http://www.observer.com/2008/dark-angel-hills?page=0%2C0). I’d say that you could learn how not to do PR work through her example, but she is wildly successful, so how could I really say that? What I can say is thank goodness for Toronto’s sane and nice fashion publicists.
Canadian Business
If you want to start a fashion business, you’ve got to remember the business part, so here’s a resource to help you: www.canadianbusiness.com.
I wrote about the magazine before, when they published an article about Damzels in this Dress designers at the Magic Tradeshow in Las Vegas, and was reminded of it this week. It was time to take another look and I found a lot of interesting stories in the ENTREPRENEUR section, including entire sections on Exporting, Managing, Sales & Marketing, and Startups. You should spend some time on this site.
I’m so sorry, but I’ve been so busy this week that I haven’t had time to do any research or arrange any interviews related to starting a fashion business. All my projects (a band, another website, sitting on the Board of a condo corp, a sewing contract, and a day job) caught up with me and demanded attention this week. I hope I haven’t let you down and will try to have more news for you next week.
If you’re a Canadian designer and haven’t heard about the new season of Project Runway Canada, read on.
The deadline to apply for Season 2 is Friday June 20, 2008. You can download applications at www.globaltv.com and can send any questions to projectrunwaycanada@insighttv.com.
I can’t wait to see you on the show!
There’s a movie that everyone keeps telling me to see and I’ll finally have the chance to see it at the ReelheART International Film Festival (www.reelheart.com).
Eleven Minutes is a feature documentary about the first Project Runway winner, Jay McCarroll (http://www.jaymccarrolldocumentary.com/) and it will screen on Tuesday June 17 at 7:00pm. I hope to see you there. I’ll be checking out other ReelheART films too. And BTW, TFI is hosting the screening.
I received a reader e-mail asking for advice on how to get involved in the fashion industry and I’m happy to help.
Volunteering is always the best way to start. Research what is happening in your city. Is there a fashion week? If so, the organizers always need volunteers.
If there’s no fashion week, are there any local designers in town? They always need help too. Call their office or e-mail an introduction and a resumé (make sure your resumé is professional and error-free). Tell them your interests, experiences, skills and availability and offer to help them out while you determine where you want to be in the fashion industry. Check out the list of TFI members on the incubator website to start and read through EVERY BIT of the TFI website! It really is a goldmine of information, especially the mentors section (tip: do a key word search to quickly find relevant articles). And don't forget that you can also volunteer for TFI.
Read Jeanne Beker’s book, Passion for Fashion: Careers in Style. It offers advice on different fashion careers and how to break into the biz.
If you’re set on being a fashion designer, I recommend that you get some formal fashion education from an accredited college or university. You'll need to understand the basics before embarking on a fashion design career. Check out Kathleen Fasanella’s site, www.fashion-incubator.com. It offers all kinds of technical information on patternmaking, grading etc.; industry terms that you'll need to know as a designer.
You’ll also want to check out your local fashion blogs for information on reputable events you can volunteer with or attend.
Overall, I think research, education and volunteer work are your best ways to break into the fashion industry.
Hi. I’m going to shamelessly promote my other site, Rags and Mags. Illustrator Danielle Meder (www.finalfashion.ca) and I are holding a contest. You can style our two fictional characters, Lucinda and Max, for the Much Music Video Awards. We were invited to the Revolver Afterparty and thought this would be a fun way to share the event with you. For information, go to www.ragsandmags.com/contest.
Tonight’s TFI Members Meeting was great. Not only did we all get pizza, an ELLE Canada magazine, and a chance to win some P&G Beauty products, we all got to share some fantastic conversation and great tips.
We chatted a bit about our experiences with TFI seminars and suggested ideas for future ones. It turns out that the TFI is listening to its members and planning a fabric seminar. I know a bunch of you will be interested in that, so stay tuned for details.
Since you weren’t able to attend, I’ll whisper some secrets that we shared:
* To manage your own PR, try registering your name and your company’s name on a Google News Alert (www.google.com).
* When selling to unfamiliar markets, start your market research with similar designers. Where do they sell?
* For information on independent shops, check out www.jargol.com.
* If you’re a Canadian designer ready to export to the U.S., go to www.nebs.ca for information on legal and shipping. They offer a program that explains all exporting details.
* Wondering how to get PR buzz and celebrity attention? TFI member Patricia Sheng (http://luxual.blogspot.com/) recommends checking out the Balmshell site (www.balmshell.com) and blog (http://balmshell-balmsquad.blogspot.com/) to see how to do it right.
If you want to hear more secrets, share tips, and talk trends, come out to the next TFI Members Meeting. It will take place on Tuesday, July 8 after the Promostyl FW 2009/2010 Trend Seminar. I’m really looking forward to the evening.
Last night was a busy fashion night. The F-List (www.f-list.ca) hosted an event to celebrate the Sex and the City movie release and to introduce the Toronto style scene to Fashion High (www.fashionhigh.ca). It’s a non-profit association of Canadian fashion professionals whose aim is to educate the public about Canada’s fashion industry while encouraging local shopping and sustainable design choices. Fashion High is a fairly recent initiative and the organizers welcome new members and ideas for branching out into chapters across Canada.
Today, European clothing company Belstaff (www.belstaff.com) held a fashion show at Brasaii, which was more like a trunk show than a fashion show. It was a smart way to introduce the new collection to journalists, stylists, and buyers.
They did everything right: greeters, press kits, look books, and access to the clothes. The clothes were hung on rolling racks and it was a simple setup, but easy to see.
Even though this event is for an established brand, it is an excellent model for new fashion businesses; it’s a way smarter investment than a fashion show. Sure it may not be as glamorous, but it gives a new designer the opportunity to meet fashion industry insiders and it allows those insiders the chance to examine the clothes.
Mind you, if your construction and fabrics aren’t top-quality, you may prefer a fashion show so critical fashion colleagues can’t examine substandard clothes.
Tonight I attended my first Fashion Group International (http://newyork.fgi.org/index.php) event. It was well organized and offered an excellent opportunity to network with fashion industry colleagues.
It featured a guest panel where Lynda Latner (Founder of Vintage Couture) spoke about the history of music and fashion; Roz Griffith Hall (Stylist who works with musicians including the cast of Canadian Idol) discussed styling; Laura (I’m sorry, I can’t remember her last name, but she works at Maple Music) had some great things to say about managing the entire artist package; and Graeme Maclean (Founder of Ukula magazine and retail store) addressed fashion and music retail issues. Robin Black (musician, hairstylist, TV personality, and soon-to-be wrestler) guided the event and added a lot of dazzle to the discussion.
I don’t know if I learned a lot from the event, but was entertained and impressed with the networking opportunities. I’m now considering an FGI membership and think you should as well.
I used to love Nylon magazine, but then I kind of grew out of it when it seemed to seek out trends too desperately.
Today, though, the mag came across my desk, so I took a look at it after ignoring it for a few years. I was interested in a feature with two fashion show DJs. Since this blog covers event planning and I always say that whatever you do to promote your business, it should be professional and organized, I realized that I haven’t really addressed event music.
If you’re a dedicated reader, you’ll know that I’m in a band and music is a big deal to me. Song choices can make or break an event. I found the Nylon interviews interesting because the two DJs approached their fashion show gigs differently. One had two months to plan the music and the other had two weeks. But both were in constant communication with the designer about the collection’s theme.
When planning music for your event, I do recommend working with someone who has DJ and technical A/V experience. I also recommend giving the person longer than two weeks to plan the tunes.
Next Monday, June 2nd, is another TFI Members Meeting and this time it will be at the TFI home base. I enjoy chatting about the business of fashion to people who are either just starting out or who have been working for a long time, so I’m looking forward to it.
I’m also looking forward to the July meeting because we’re planning something special. On Tuesday July 8, TFI is hosting the Promostyl (www.promostyl.com) trend forecasting seminar and the TFI Members Meeting will follow. It will be an interesting way to chat about the trends presented and perhaps share some ideas on how to put them in action.
The evening is for TFI Members only and you can register at www.fashionincubator.com/shop or call TFI Admin at 416.971.7117. See you there!
Okay, I’m not learning to knit, but I might be tempted. Today, Danielle Meder (www.finalfashion.ca) and I were exploring Toronto stores, searching for clothing and accessories for our fictional alter-egos at Rags and Mags www.ragsandmags.com) when we were drawn into The Knit Café(www.theknitcafetoronto.com). Neither of us are that into knitting, but we just finished a conversation about how maybe we should start when a sign told us, “Free Beginner Classes”. “Perfect!” we thought and went in to learn more. The sign didn’t lie; The Knit Café hosts some free starting classes, along with more advanced ones. If you’re interested, check out the store to learn more. The owners are former Outreach members and attended some TFI Members Meetings in the past, so I may attend one of their classes.
If you read my blog last year, you might remember a post about marketing and targeting bloggers (it was on January 17, 2007). At that time, I felt weird taking some Herbal Essences stuff and telling you about it because this is not a beauty blog, but I thought it was an interesting exercise in how large companies use the web for marketing.
This time, the promotion company, Matchstick (www.matchstick.ca) contacted me again to see if I loved chocolate. It turned out that I was the kind chocolate lover that they were looking for, so they sent me a bunch of Dove chocolates to try and mention in my blog. They said it didn’t matter if I liked the product or not (side note: I did. Too much.). Again, I felt weird about taking the chocolate and blatantly mentioning it in a fashion business blog, but I was intrigued with what sort of package they’d send out and what independent fashion designers can learn from this type of promotional approach. Here’s what I learned:
Am I selling my blogging soul by writing about this?
Let me know.
My friend Jenny just started working at IMAGO Zine (www.imagozine.com), which features “the best in International Indie Culture.” I hadn’t heard of it before, so I checked out the site and attended the fashion show for the launch of Issue 4. I liked what they were trying to do, which was combine fashion, art, and music, but it wasn’t the smoothest show I attended. Here’s what I learned from the event:
This was a creative show and it’s an interesting magazine. I look forward to reading Issue 4 and seeing future shows.
Next week (on Wednesday May 28), the TFI will co-present an evening on environmentally-conscious design. It’s called Design Green: A Call to Action and will highlight eco-design in different disciplines. Fashion, architecture, graphic design, and interior design will all be represented. The event is free to the public, with a suggested donation of $10 at the door, which will benefit the Design Industry Advisory Committee (www.diac.on.ca )and the TFI. For more information or to register your attendance, go to this site: www.usinglessenjoyingmore.com\designgree.
I never would have thought I’d enjoy sewing someone else’s designs as much as I do. It’s fun, but I don’t think every contract sewing job would be as pleasurable as this one.
I found something that combines my old life (urban planning and mapping) with my new one (independent design): Modern Urban Guides(www.modernurbanguides.com). I’ve been seeing them in shops on Queen West and Queen East and finally picked one up. They do an excellent job of listing indie stores and restaurants and have maps in Toronto, Vancouver, Victoria, Calgary, and South Georgian Bay. If you’re an independent retailer in those areas, you should check into listing opportunities.
If you read my blog last year, you might remember a few entries about my first foray into contract sewing with Revive 45 and now I’m at it again.
My friend Shauna Ireland co-owns Revive 45 with Lindsay Perraton, but she also does a million other things (kind of like me!). Shauna is a stylist, event planner, designer, and an excellent dancer. She is about to launch a line of supercool belts called Waisted, so watch for those.
Tonight we got together to tear apart and re-build cowboy shirts to be sold at the Calgary Stampede. Shauna and I get a chance to catch up while she decides on designs and I sew what she wants. There may have some wine involved. Definitely lots of fun and lots of “Oh, that’s so cute!” or “So rock ‘n roll!”
Something tells me that other sewing contracts just wouldn’t be as fun. When the shirts are done, I’ll let you know where you can pick them up if you happen to be in Calgary and require some cool cowboy shirts for Stampede Week.
Tonight I attended the Made You Look Re-Launch and felt kind of guilty for not checking out the store before.
Made You Look used to be one Queen Street West jewellery store and gallery, but now it is two, right across the street from each other. The North side has more formal pieces while the South side has more whimsical accessories.
The event was everything a store launch should be. It began with announcements and reminders from Rock-It Promotions that provided all necessary information. Rock-It staff greeted guests and answered any and all questions. Jewellery designers were easily identifiable because they all wore Made You Look aprons and they welcomed impromptu questions about their work and their store. There was a cheerful crowd of designers, media, and local scenesters who enjoyed the art work as well as wine, hors d’oeuvres, and wonderful gift bags. You know what that means. It’s time to play….
Gift Bag Hit or Miss!
Many people are grappling with online promotion, so let me provide some advice: Bloggers and their readers can identify “marketing” easily and know when a product or event recommendation is genuine.
Here’s an example:
Anita Clarke of BlogTO posted a sample sale flyer on her personal blog, i want – i got and then received three comments in three minutes of each other. She realized they came from the same IP address, which means one person concocted personas and stacked the deck. As a result, it doesn’t give the best impression of the event.
What can we learn from this? Be genuine.
Sorry for the not-so-exciting blog week. The day job was busy while I caught up on 2 weeks worth of work, and while I did, I didn’t have much time to research fashion business stuff for you. Don’t fret; I’ll be on top of it soon.
You might remember my interview earlier this year with Regina-based jewellery designer Rachel Mielke of Hillberg & Berk www.hillbergandberk.com">(www.hillbergandberk.com). We chatted about her experiences as a Western Canadian in the fashion industry when she was in Toronto for the TFI’s Guilty Pleasures sale. Guess who will be returning to Toronto very soon?
Yes, Rachel will be back this month to film an episode of Dragon’s Den for CBC. I told you about it before: it’s that show where entrepreneurs pitch ideas to successful Canadian business moguls for the chance of investment funds and guidance. The moguls are indeed dragons and there is always criticism. The new season starts in the fall, so watch for it and pay attention for Rachel’s episode.
Belated Interview with Judge David Dixon
What would my New Labels coverage have been without an interview from designer David Dixon? I’m sorry that I had to hold this from you until my return, but here it is. For those of you considering entering New Labels next year, this interview was worth the wait.
CR: You have a long history with the Toronto Fashion Incubator as a New Labels competitor, Resident Designer, Outreach Member, Mentor, New Labels Competition Judge, and now TFI President (congratulations!). Why is the TFI so important to you?
DD: The TFI is so important to me because it is what helped me build my business. It gave the tools with which to compete, and taught me the ropes of the industry in a creative environment.
CR: You competed in New Labels and now you're a judge. Because of this experience, do you think you approach the competition from a different perspective than the other judges?
DD: I think fashion is so subjective to begin with, so everyone has an opinion. However, being on both sides of the process, I believe I understand the value that TFI New Labels show has. It offers a chance to get all the people in the industry to see what you are doing, and the real benefit is that the TFI and its sponsors guarantee that your line will be seen.
CR: What do you learn about new Canadian designers while judging the New Labels Competition?
DD: What I have learned by judging is: listening to both the designers and of course the judges themselves. It is a really important information tool, when you have respected industry people critiquing your line before it is shown to press and buyers. The designers learn, and what I have learned, is the concept of vision, focus, and editing.
CR: What makes a strong New Labels contestant?
DD: A strong New Labels participant has great listening skills, a thick skin, an openness to new ideas, and of course great clothes.
CR: Can you give any tips to potential New Labels competitors who might want to apply next year?
DD: My advice to aspiring New Labels contestants is to have a point of view. Keeping an open mind is key, and listening to what the judges are saying. They are there to guide and help you to make your presentation memorable and professional.
I was a bit secretive about my vacation since I didn’t want to announce to the Internet that I wouldn’t be at my home for two whole weeks (between blogs, Facebook, and myspace, there can be too much that people can learn about you), but yes, I was gone for two whole weeks…to Ukraine!
My brother and mother explored family roots and saw where my grandmother grew up before emigrating to Canada at age 12 in 1914. We met some distant family too. What an amazing experience.
During the trip, I kept my eyes open for fashion information I could pass on to you and to be honest, I didn’t have much opportunity to explore the fashion industry in great detail, but I can say that it was interesting to see fashion exploding in a country that is experimenting with capitalism and consumerism. I saw a few independent boutiques, but most seemed to specialize in special occasion gowns and furs. The rest of the stores were the international designers you know (BCBG, Kenzo, Dolce and Gabanna, etc.), but I did see three instances of Canadian representation: DSquared, Bata, and Aldo. More reasonably priced non-designer clothes were found in markets. My conclusion was that Ukrainians were very hungry for international labels.
It was a fantastic trip and made me wonder about experience of fashion designers who are new to Canada. I know some new Canadians are TFI Members, so I’ll try to interview them in future weeks.
It's sad but true. The monthly members meeting scheduled for tomorrow, May 5th, has been cancelled due to a lack of attendees...or is it a lack of interest? It's hard to believe that TFI members have no interest in networking and sharing ideas, so what gives?
We hope to see everyone at the next meeting, scheduled for Monday, June 2nd! Please remember to register ahead of time through TFI.
Interview with Judge Kathy Cheng
Shortly after graduating from the University of Toronto in business management, Kathy developed her marketing skills in various posts, including managing the Canadian Education Expo in Taipei, Taiwan. In 2000, Kathy took on the position of director of marketing and business development for Wing Son Garments Ltd., a Canadian activewear manufacturer, which specializes in customized programs for international brand-name clients. Kathy serves on the board of directors for Fashion Group International, Toronto Chapter, as well as the Toronto Fashion Incubator’s Advisory Committee. This year, she also volunteered as a New Labels judge.
CR: You have worked all over the world and are back in Toronto and on the Toronto Fashion Incubator's Advisory Committee. Why is the TFI important to you?
KC: TFI is important to me on two levels.
Professionally, I have feel that there is a lot of design talent in Canada, Toronto specifically. With the diminishing landscape of the textile industry in Canada, we need to foster and nurture these talents. TFI assists these young talents execute their visions into reality.
Personally, TFI is important because it bridges the gap between Canada’s design talent and the “real world”. Canada’s fashion industry has given my family the opportunity for a better life in Canada when we first immigrated here in the late 70’s. Giving back to the community that has given my family so much is the least I can do.
CR: Why did you agree to be a New Labels Competition judge?
KC: There is a need for more manufacturing representation in Canada’s fashion community. Canada’s textile industry has been negatively affected by off-shore production competition, the strong Canadian dollar and now, the United States’ economic conditions.
Textile suppliers & manufacturers closing shops have been an on-going trend, which directly affects new Canadian designers. Designers’ sourcing capabilities, product development and ability to produce goods to bring to the market are all struggles that Canadian designers will have to continue to face if there is not enough support for Made in Canada products.
By being a judge this year, I hoped to share my production knowledge with the contestants to help them create a better product.
CR: Did you benefit from being a judge in the competition this year? If yes, in what way?
KC: Yes, I most definitely did! I have a broader understanding of how collections are developed.
As a contract manufacturer, we are given specification packages from our clients, rather than working with them from the initial design stage. Being involved with TFI strengthens the skill-set I can offer my clients; being the bridge between designs versus actual execution of ideas.
CR: On what basis was this year's winner determined?
KC: Marketability, viability and uniqueness of the line.
CR: Because of your background, did you approach the judging process from a marketing perspective or from a production perspective? Why are either of these perspectives important to consider?
KC: That’s a very interesting question. I initially embraced my judging responsibilities expecting to provide my thoughts exclusively from a production perspective; looking for construction details, fabric choices, etc.
I was extremely fortunate to be in the presence of a strong and seasoned group of judges. As the competition developed, I found myself inspired by the comments of other judges, broadening my perspectives and shifting my focus from solely production to the overall marketability of the line.
CR: Can you give any tips to potential New Labels competitors who might want to apply next year?
KC: Be forward thinking in terms of all-encompassing elements of a collection; consider bulk production costs and attainability of sourced materials.
There were many clever designs with the use of construction details; however the time required executing the designs drives up the cost of bulk production, which in turn affects the selling price and marketability of the line.
Being part of TFI’s New Label competition is great exposure, which may generate interested buyers. Being able to produce the presented collection is just as important as being able to develop the line. Put more effort in sourcing fabrics from mills that carry in-stock fabrics instead of purchasing from retail textile suppliers. This may be more time consuming and it could limit your creative juices in the beginning, however you will be glad to be able to minimize one less hurdle when you are faced with bringing your collection into the consumer market place.
Meet Kathy at TFI’s upcoming seminar,“Working with Contractors”, May 15th at TFI. Bring lots of questions about producing in Canada for a lively and interactive session. Registration deadline is May 7th so be sure to sign up today through TFI Shop.
Here is the official press release issued from Faulhaber PR:
For Immediate Release
Toronto - Budding Canadian designers Adrienne Butikofer, Ashley Rowe, Eugenia Leavitt and Lara Presber showed their dramatic Fall 08 collections to a jam-packed crowd of over 1,000 fashion media, celebrities and benefactors during the TFI new labels designer competition. The finale runway show celebration was in conjunction with the opening gala night of the inaugural ELLE Show presented by ELLE Canada. The night began with a wine reception by Vin de Pays d’Oc and a VIP gala dinner, with net proceeds from ticket sales going directly to Toronto Fashion Incubator.
Montreal native EUGENIA LEAVITT was awarded the generous prize package valued at $25,000 and named TFI new labels competition WINNER for 2008!
“All four finalists should be very proud of themselves. Chosen from across the country for their unique perspectives, these young designers are on their way to successful careers, a testament that Canadian fashion talent is thriving.” said Susan Langdon, Executive Director of Toronto Fashion Incubator.
The event was hosted by eTalk’s exquisite Tanya Kim, wearing a dress designed by one of the new labels judges, David Dixon. Rita Silvan (ELLE Canada), Nathalie Atkinson (National Post), Mary Jo Looby (Retail Consultant), Kathy Cheng (Wing Son Garments) and David Dixon (Designer) deliberated in front of the spectators, reaching their verdict within minutes of the last model’s exit from the runway.
“The designers go through several rigorous critique sessions with the judges that takes months of preparation for the final show ,”says Nathalie Atkinson. “Eugenia won not only for her collection's newsworthiness or because she made organic materials look fashionable and effortless, but because she was receptive to constructive criticism and came a long way in refining her style and fit to get there. The end result was a beautiful collection elevated by its runway styling and pure in its simplicity -- and the fit was impeccable.”
When the media asked “What’s next?” Eugenia focused on the desire to fulfill orders and begin work on her next collection. Her well heeled feet firmly planted in the exciting prospects of her company’s growth.
www.eugeniadesigns.com"> www.eugeniadesigns.com
Media contact:
FAULHABER PR
Christine Faulhaber
416 504 0768
Yes, it’s here, but guess who will not be able to attend?
Sadly, me.
I’m taking some time off, but will be back soon. In the meantime, can you please tell me what I missed? I’m curious to hear about your thoughts on the competition. Thanks and double air-kisses to you all.
Interview with Judge Mary Jo Looby
Mary Jo Looby has considerable merchandising and buying experience in the Canadian fashion industry and brings a strong retail and sales perspective to the New Labels judging panel.
CR: You are a former buyer for the Bay and Holt Renfrew and not only are you a TFI New Labels Competition judge, but you are also an Industry Consultant for TFI Outreach Members. Why is the TFI important to Canadian design and why did you agree to be a New Labels judge?
MJL: Toronto Fashion Incubator is Canada ’s launch pad for new fashion design talent. Designers can achieve an in-house apprenticeship or enjoy an out reach member status. Both positions offer Canada ’s newest designers support, mentorship, contacts, skill development, and marketing opportunities. The benefit to the design industry is a consistent flow of recognizable talent into the fashion marketplace. The Incubator helps groom this talent so that Canadian fashion can compete worldwide. I really believe in the mission and commitment of the Toronto Fashion Incubator. I meet incredible people with real talent during my mentoring sessions there. New Labels is an extension of my commitment to mentoring. It’s very exciting to be part of the wonderful selection process and, of course, the Gala evening, when we will select our New Labels winner.
CR: What do you learn about new Canadian designers while being a New Labels judge?
MJL: My strongest observation of the New Labels contestants was an overall focus on commercial success. The New Labels finalists are very aware of what it takes to compete in today’s marketplace and are hungry to take their vision to the next level.
CR: You are a TFI Industry Consultant, which means you donate your time and advice to TFI Members. What differences do you see between Outreach Members who you consult with and New Labels competitors?
MJL: I believe the New Labels competitors are further developed in their business plans and design strategies than the Outreach members I see at TFI. Many Outreach members are just formulating their business aspirations and ask me for feedback and direction as to their next steps. New Labels competitors have a confidence level with their product that is urging them to take their brand to another level.
CR: Have you approached the judging process from a buyer's perspective? In your opinion, what makes a strong New Labels contestant?
MJL: Yes, I definitely approached the judging process from buyer’s perspective, which is really with a view to “who is the customer” and “how does this product compete”. A strong New Labels contestant has a strong vision for his /her brand which encompasses style and price point. All design criteria should line up with vision with regards to: fit, construction, fabrics, label/hangtag design and marketing. Ideally, a strong New Labels contestant has a “wow” factor or that certain something that makes them special.
CR: Can you give any tips to potential New Labels competitors who might want to apply next year?
MJL: Go for it! This competition is a great jumpstart for an emerging designer. Your submission should reflect your design vision with an eye to commercial success. A balanced collection that includes some “wow” and some strong basics done your way. The Judging of New Labels allows for several meetings between designers and the judges. Judges give their input on every aspect of the submission, so the judging process itself is an amazing learning experience.
Interview with Competitor Ashley Rowe
CR: What's your story?
AR: Before I started my clothing line miss rowe, I interned at Flare and Fashion Magazine, worked for the Fashion Design Council of Canada (FDCC) for L’Oreal Fashion Week and worked at Holt Renfrew as an assistant to Micheline Burg.
CR: Please describe your clothing line and the products you produce.
AR: The miss rowe line is based on beautiful fabrics and tailoring to produce classic fashion forward separates.
CR: Why did you enter the TFI New Labels Competition?
AR: To receive constructive feedback and industry knowledge from the judges and grow the miss separates brand.
CR: How did you prepare for your New Labels entry? How much time have you put into the competition?
AR: I began preparing a month before the application was due. After I was accepted, there were a series of three judgings (one a month) before I knew I was in the final runway show (which will be held on April 24th 2008).
CR: What have you learned from your experience with the TFI and the New Labels Competition?
AR: I have learned a lot from the judges. It has been such a great experience to have 5 “mentors" as well as Susan Langdon as a sounding board and advisor throughout the entire competition.
CR: Have you seen your competition's designs? If so, what have you learned from your competitors?
AR: I have seen the three other finalist’s designs - the final runway show will be one that cannot be missed!
CR: If you have one piece of advice to new designers, what would it be?
AR: Never, never, never give up!
Interview with Competitor Lara Presber
CR: What's your story?
LP: Before starting my clothing line (and still today to help finance it), I worked – and still work – in the field of architecture. While I still enjoy being an architect, I never fully connected with the built environment and couldn’t bring the passion to my day-to-day projects required to be a truly successful designer, so I made the switch into the medium of fabric through fashion.
CR: Please describe your clothing line and the products you produce.
LP: My clothing line originated from a need that my coworkers and I had to have access to professional yet still ‘fun’ clothing. The collection focuses on quality of fabrics and construction with classic, clean lines, injected with a quirkiness to keep it interesting.
CR: Why did you enter the TFI New Labels Competition?
LP: I sometimes feel a little isolated trying to start up a clothing line in Calgary and entered the competition as a way to have mentors that could give me feedback about my clothes. The only way to learn is through experience so if I can gain knowledge through theirs, it saves me from making some pretty major mistakes. Also, the media exposure of the Elle Show isn’t so bad either!
CR: How did you prepare for your New Labels entry? How much time have you put into the competition?
LP: I prepared for the New Labels entry by travelling for fabric sourcing and inspiration and then locking myself away until I emerged with what I thought was a good start for a modest collection of 15 outfits. I don’t think that I could even quantify how much time I’ve spent on the competition. On average, I work about 14-15 hours a day, every day, and have been doing so since the beginning of the competition. A lot of what we do for the competition overlaps with what we would do for our own business anyway, so a time estimate is tough.
CR: What have you learned from your experience with the TFI and the New Labels Competition?
LP: The most significant thing that I have learned from this competition is the development of a fashion business. There is a very rigid schedule set forth from the beginning that guides you through essentially all of the steps to get your designs from paper to runway and the timeframe in which it needs to happen.
CR: Have you seen your competition's designs? If so, what have you learned from your competitors?
LP: Yes, we have all seen each other’s designs, but only recently. I think that the most impressive thing is the variety of talent that is in this competition and how each designer has worked equally hard and has brought something so entirely different to the show. Most of what I have learned from my fellow competitors happens when we spend 5 or so hours with each other while the judges review our collections. It’s a great time to chat about where each of us is at and to maybe fill in some of the blanks that each of us is encountering.
CR: If you have one piece of advice to new designers, what would it be?
LP: My one piece of advice is that you must be 110% committed and bring passion to your every day that you didn’t even know that you had. It’s a difficult business to get started in and you will need all of the strength you can command to push through, but when it finally starts to take root it’s better than you can even imagine.
Interview with Judge Nathalie Atkinson
As the National Post’s style and culture columnist and contributing fashion editor, Nathalie Atkinson is one of Canadian fashion’s biggest cheerleaders and a perfect choice for New Labels judge.
CR: In your reporting, you focus on Canadian designers. Why is the Toronto Fashion Incubator important to Canadian design and why did you agree to be a New Labels Competition judge?
NA: I am always interested in new and emerging designers, both personally and professionally. The TFI and any organization that supports and nurtures both a designer’s talent and business sense along the way in the business of fashion, from marketing to production, costing and sales, is vital to the survival and success of the industry. Our designers are the future of the fashion industry in Canada and they need to be equipped with more than just sewing skills.
CR: What do you learn about new Canadian designers while being a New Labels judge?
NA: I am always delighted when I meet an enthusiastic new Canadian designer, from the ones who dream big to the one who keeps it smaller and realistic -but viable- with a very focused business (just one city, say, or a very specific niche market). I have discovered that Canadian designers are a persistent, industrious breed. I love to watch their careers progress and keep in touch and support them when possible. I like to be a resource for them long after the competition is over.
New Labels is a learning experience for me, too. I have learned a lot along with the various designers over the years about the finer points of construction, fit, and tailoring, especially from fellow judge David Dixon this season. And about potential production and manufacturing challenges from judge Kathy Cheng of Wing Son. Each judge brings a different aspect of expertise to the table for the finalists.
CR: From a journalistic perspective, what makes a strong New Labels contestant?
NA: A designer has to have a point of view and confidence in their own taste (and back that up with talent and skill) to survive and thrive. Point of view is crucial because the industry is just glutted with fashion and accessory lines nowadays and consumers have more choice than ever. It’s great if you’re inspired by Marni, but chances are Zara, H&M, and other high street mass-marketers are too, and they are already giving consumers that, at a discount. There’s a lot of competition and unless a designer is doing something original - whether the design itself, the sourcing, the fabric, the manufacturing or the ethics behind the line - or all those things - it’s going to be a tough slog. That’s why it’s so important to do due diligence and know the marketplace and what competition and opportunities are out there. Just because you love to make expensive evening gowns doesn't mean the market needs or wants them. There are many talented designers, but I think it’s often it’s the latter knowledge that ensure success --or not. Also: Enthusiasm and energy. They’re gonna need that passion to make it!
CR: Can you give any tips to potential New Labels competitors who might want to apply next year?
NA: There’s no point in entering if you think you have all the answers. (No designer does. No journalist does, either!)
Be prepared to defend your point of view and spend a lot of time listening, too. An aspect of the judging process is really talking to the finalists as a buyer would, questioning everything from the width of a trouser leg to construction of a shoulder, market appropriateness, and other questions relevant to eventually getting the line successfully sold and produced (which is the whole point, right?). You don’t have to take all the advice and constructive criticism, but be prepared to be open-minded. And to work hard!
CR: What are the best ways for a new designer to get a journalist's attention?
NA: Gosh, where do I start...I could teach a workshop on the don’ts and dos.
Be well prepared before you even think about sending any press information or media materials out. Designers can’t do everything, but if you can’t afford a PR helper, then at least familiarize yourself with the specific work of the journalist you’re pitching and/or their publication to see what types of stories they tend to write. That means reading their byline. (The side benefit is that it’s also market research on the competition and industry.)
Do your market research. Be realistic about what you can and cannot do, and be.
Take a few pictures of what you design (low-res, please!) and have retail prices and retailer info ready and if there’s a human interest story potential, that too.
Don’t send gifts; save your money and spend it on your collection and materials. As for press kit medium, journalists vary - some, like me, prefer email and PDFs, while others like hard press kits in folders. Whatever you can afford, and is appropriate.
Follow-up after a suitable interval, but don’t be an aggressive stalker! If a journalist says they’re not interested, or that they will keep it on file for potential future consideration, then that’s that.
But above all, be honest. I wish designers and their PRs would dispense with all the hyperbole and superlatives in press releases. PLEASE. There is very little more off-putting than a press release that wildly overstates itself or is misleading. Not a day goes by I don’t receive at least one of these and while it’s one thing to have confidence and pride in your collection, but it’s entirely another to talk it up to the point of ridiculous overstatement. Let the journalist make up his or her mind with the information you’ve supplied. Because if there’s anybody who knows the fashion market inside and out (or at least, who should), it’s the journalist whose beat is fashion. If you’re a little handbag brand that sells at church bazaars and craft fairs, but not in actual stores, or a start-up with an online boutique at Etsy.com, just say so. Everybody starts small, and there’s no shame in that. In fact, that’s often a more interesting story!
A friend told me that she was thinking of starting a new fashion business and asked about the best way to approach the TFI, what membership option might be best for her, and should she become a resident. I thought you’d appreciate what I told her:
I think the best thing for you to start with would be to explore absolutely everything on the TFI website, especially "Resources" and "Mentors". Under "Resources", you should be able to buy a list of contractors, regardless of whether you're a TFI member or not.
Next, I recommend calling the TFI to speak with Nina Facciolo, who is one of the Executive Assistants. Tell her you're interested in becoming a member, but would like a tour first. She'll be able to make tour arrangements. When you go, take a list of your questions and do her best to answer them.
There is tons of info in the Resource Centre. It's only open to members, so if you decide that you like the TFI after your tour, then you should buy an Outreach Membership (you can find details on the website under "Our Members"). Then I recommend the Resource Centre as a stop before you start your business plan. Schedule a morning or afternoon to spend in there to get acquainted with all of the materials. Then you can go back when you need to research something further. The files about business plans and contracting will probably be where you want to start, but I recommend that you take a quick look at everything to get an idea of what's there.
And that's how I would start.
Interview with Competitor Eugenia Leavitt
CR: What's your story?
EL: Before getting into fashion, I did a degree in Fine Arts and studied mainly printmaking and textiles. I started to realize that once I had finished screenprinting a piece of fabric, all I wanted to do was make it into clothing. This is what lead me to fashion design. I studied fashion in Montreal and after graduating school, I worked for a textile artist for a children's apparel company, in costume design, and then became an assistant to a fashion designer. During all this time, I always had my own projects on the go: making bags, custom-made clothing, and mini collections, which I sold on consignment to stores across Canada. It wasn't too long ago I made the decision to really work hard on a bigger collection and try to get into the right cycle for stores to buy my line.
CR: Please describe your clothing line and the products you produce.
EL: For my ready-to wear women's clothing line, I aim to combine fashion and textile art to create garments to treasure over the seasons. The clothing is for a lady who seeks out hand-crafted pieces to add to an ecclectic, time-encompassing wardrobe. It's locally-made with mostly organic fabric.
CR: Why did you enter the TFI New Labels Competition?
EL: It was all because of an e-mail TFI sent out about the competition and calling for entrees. I read it, paused, and thought, “This time I'm ready and I want to give it a shot!” Also, since I wanted to make a fall collection anyway, being a part of the competition would only help me in this process.
CR: How did you prepare for your New Labels entry? How much time have you put into the competition?
EL: I spent a lot of time putting together my portfolio and doing illustrations of the collection. Since being accepted as a semi-finalist, with every round there has been more work to do! After hearing what advice the judges had to say, I had to complete some re-working too. It's been a really fast winter though, because I've been so focused on the work. Now it's spring and we'll soon be ready to show off our work!
CR: What have you learned from your experience with the TFI and the New Labels Competition?
EL: It's been a great experience, no doubt about it. Overwhelming at times, but all worth it. Susan Langdon has been a wonderful person to work with and learn from. She really wants everyone to do well and so do the judges. Having a very experienced and knowledgeable panel of judges all giving feedback about your work is so valuable, especially when you are just starting out. Now that the designers have been chosen for the fashion show, we've been working on the production of the show and have met with some amazing people on that side of the business. People in hair and make-up, the show producers, stylists and even Fashion Television!
CR: Have you seen your competition's designs? If so, what have you learned from your competitors?
EL: Yes, I've seen the other girls' collections. We've been meeting at TFI every month or so since January, so I've also spent some time with the other designers. During our time waiting for the judges to meet us, the designers are able to get to know each other, ask questions, and give suggestions. I've found everyone to be pretty open and honest and it's been helpful and encouraging to be around other people at the same stage as you. It's also great to see that we all have very different styles and points of view and this will make for an interesting and exciting fashion show!
CR: If you have one piece of advice to new designers, what would it be?
EL: Ask for help! Try to get as much advice and feedback as you can from a big range of people in the business. It's so much work getting a collection together (especially if you still have another job) that you should, where you can, let go of some parts of the process such as sewing your own samples.
If you log into www.pgbeauty.ca and look into the fashion section, you’ll find my oh-so-fashion-reporter-y review of the Sam McKnight event. Fun!
Interview with Competitor Adrienne Butikofer
CR: What's your story?
AB: I grew up in the prairies of Manitoba , outside a little town called Elm Creek (pop. 350!). I started sewing at around 9 years old. I was obsessed with pioneers as a kid; that was my thing. So reading about them constantly and learning about how they survived made me want to live off the land and be self sufficient- by sewing pencil cases and Barbie clothes mostly.
I moved into the big Peg city at 13 and started designing and making my own clothes in high school. I somehow ended up at UWO in sciences. Then I woke up and realized that I should be in fashion design, because half my wardrobe was made by me, I loved doing it, and I had a knack. I went to Fanshawe College in London and graduated in 2003, and moved to Toronto after. It seemed the only logical place to go in order to make it happen, although my heart occasionally pines for the Peg.
I have been making clothes and selling them in different boutiques in Toronto since 2004. My first store was Pho Pa when it was in Kensington and I still sell there along with The Rage, Magic Pony, Iki, Nathalie-Roze + co., Propaganda, Eye Spy, Boutique Le Trou, and Shopgirls. I have held odd jobs here and there as a wardrobe stylist, bartender, I worked at Suzi Roher for a while making belts, I’ve taught crafts and sewing programs to kids- whatever I could find to pay the bills and not make me hate fashion.
CR: Please describe your clothing line and the products you produce.
AB: My clothing line is indie-rock chic, with a 90’s grunge spirit. It’s kind of trendy, kind of timeless. The beauty is in the details, which are well thought and not always obvious. I love working with colour, and try for a youthful, spirited edge. My market is streetwear. I do a lot of separates, including knitwear and denim.
My other label is Caninja- a lighthearted, cool/uncool, super practical line of winter accessories. The name Caninja is derived from Canadian-ninja and is also known as the Canadian Climate Fighter. The first product I designed is the Caninja Original and is best described as a hooded scarf hat. I make most of them out of fun recycled sweaters, Cosby and bedazzled, and some plain for the less adventurous. Almost everything in the Caninja line is one of a kind or limited edition. For Fall ’07, I expanded the roster to include other products like the Caninja Gyspy, the Finninja,, Caninja Minis, and a few others. Caninja is all about funny punny taglines, polymorphic design, and embracing winter. It’s been selling around Toronto since 2004.
CR: Why did you enter the TFI New Labels Competition?
AB: Well, I have been doing this for a few years now, and really want to catch up with the fashion calendar and start doing full collections. I knew New Labels would be a great launching pad with valuable advice along the way. I had entered it in 2004 after design school, but didn’t get in obviously. I've pretty much been designing full collections on paper every season since then, but could never get the samples ready in time. I’ve had my eye on the prize for a while and it’s always been a goal of mine to be here. Last fall I gave myself a little ‘now or never’ push.
CR: How did you prepare for your New Labels entry? How much time have you put into the competition?
AB: I started thinking about it seriously last September. I contacted Danielle Meder right away, who did all my illustrations for me. My drawing skills are more utilitarian than impressive. It was fun and great working with her on it and she kind of whipped me into shape. Even though technically she was working for me, sometimes it seemed the other way around. I probably spent about 50 hours on my application. Since I found out I was a finalist it has pretty much been 80-90 hour workweeks since the beginning of January. I developed an entirely new set of blocks to establish the fit of my line and I also do all the work myself – patterns and sewing. I went through a ton of re-dos and redesigns. I have a rack of almost 25 extra samples that were cut and or redone from the line. I changed some fabrics half way through so that was a lot of extra work.
CR: What have you learned from your experience with the TFI and the New Labels Competition?
AB: I learned a lot about designing a collection. I kind of initially made it way harder than it had to be. At first, my collection was 15 outfits and 35 different ideas. I learned to take maybe 7 or 8 of those ideas and save the rest for another time. I learned how to be a better patternmaker, by using the same sleeve on everything it called for, for example, basically working smarter, not harder. There were more than a few “Duh!” moments. The whole concept of what a collection is has been developed for me throughout the competition. I am psyched for the next one, which I am anticipating to be a fun easy breezy time.
More philosophically, I think New Labels started me on a lot of little journeys that are going to last a long time. I still have a ton of learning to do, technically, professionally, and personally. This collection is not my magnum opus, but I think now I am headed in the right direction. The experience was invaluable.
CR: Have you seen your competition's designs? If so, what have you learned from your competitors?
AB: We haven’t really seen too much of each other’s work, minus it hanging on a rack. Ashley Rowe seems to have some great momentum. I think she made the whole process quite simple for herself from the beginning, something I learned the hard way.
CR: If you have one piece of advice to new designers, what would it be?
AB: Work at it.
Today’s review is kind of exciting because I get to report on [FAT] from a participant’s perspective. As I mentioned earlier, my band played and although you’re reading this blog from the perspective of a fashion business owner, you can learn from my performer experience.
Though I am a huge supporter of the event, the week before, I had to chase the organizers for detailed information about our performance day. They did respond quickly, so this wasn’t a huge deal. But if you’re organizing an event you’ll always want to send everybody details as soon as possible so you can worry about other things during the week of the event.
We got there on time, but had to wait around for another band to show up in order to do our sound check. If you ever participate in an event, always be on time, whether you’re a musician, designer, artist, or whatever. If you’re late, you could hold up the production.
If you’re in a group event, you have to recognize that you might have to give up some control over your work. Everything was great with our set, but photos and video installations were all displayed via flat screens, which left artists without any control over their visuals. It looked cool though. Sometimes you cannot be a control freak! Luckily, at [FAT], all the artists were in excellent hands with Vanja Vasic and her team. I was honoured to participate in the event and look forward to the next one.
If you didn’t check it out this year, I encourage you to do so next time because there are bound to be some fantastic surprises.
The best thing about this evening was the positive energy throughout the event. Many runway shows, performances, and installations revolved around the theme of improving the world. There was a lot of cheering, smiling, and dancing throughout the evening, which put the fun back in fashion.
Four to five designers were shown in well-edited groups that included collection highlights from designers. No show or designer went on too long.
The venue was set up efficiently as well. The bar area was far enough away for people to chat without disrupting the shows, but then again, all of us bloggers were chatting away in the front rows, enjoying the urban fashion experiment.
It was the first night of the Toronto Alternative Art and Fashion Festival [FAT] tonight and it was exactly what I expected: many different artists, genres, and styles of music, art, dance, and fashion. Some things I loved, others I didn’t, but it was a celebration of the variety of work around Toronto.
Some shows were late, but it wasn’t too bad, but overall production was smooth and efficient.
What designers and show producers can learn from this event is how to cast alternative models. Andrew Sardone from NOW Magazine describes the casting process here (http://www.nowtoronto.com/blog/view_post.cfm?post=657), which turned out to be a successful exercise in celebrating diversity. Sure, there were some nervous new runway walkers, but others were also cast from the Ben Barry Agency (www.benbarry.com), and all made for a more interesting catwalk experience than seen at L’Oréal Fashion Week. Then again, if some of these models were at LFW, I probably would have critiqued them, but they all suited the event.
Last night’s TFI Members Meeting at Gossip Restaurant was packed with people and conversation.
We began by discussing Sales Agents because Ken Forbes e-mailed me with that suggestion. It was a great help and I was able to prepare some information prior to the meeting (along with help from Susan, Nina, and Anne at the TFI). We also talked about contractors and how to find/hire one. For those who missed the meeting, be sure to attend TFI’s upcoming seminar on How to Work With Contractors (May 15, 2008). You can sign up today at TFI Shop.
If you are planning on coming to the next meeting on Monday May 5, be sure to pre-register before May 1st and feel free to send me questions or suggestions on discussion topics. Members Meetings are for you and are meant to help you solve some business problems in areas where you might be stuck.
They’re also meant to be a way for TFI members to connect, so if you can’t think of a specific question, that’s just fine.
Yesterday I helped judge the Ryerson University Second-and-Third-Year Fashion Show, and was blown away! It was a professionally executed production, from backstage organization and teamwork to signage and front-of-house reception. Everything was impeccable and I learned a few things from this amazing group of students:
[FAT] is next week, from Wednesday April 9 to Friday April 11 and I think you should check it out. Information is at www.getfat.ca.
If you can only go one night, you might want to go on Friday because guess whose band will be playing? Yup, mine! If you’ve been wondering what Satan’s Candy (www.myspace.com/satanscandyrocks) is all about, here’s your chance to find out. Plus, you can see a few fashion shows, enjoy some art, and see how we will match our outfits to the night’s theme: Conflict.
[FAT] will take place at the Fermenting Cellar in the Distillery District. Satan’s Candy starts at 8:00pm sharp!
Interview with Judge Rita Silvan
The TFI New Labels Competition will be held as a gala event at the ELLE Show (www.elleshow.ca) on April 24. I have asked the finalists and judges a few questions about their New Labels experience and will give you their answers in the days leading up to the event.
First up, Head Judge, ELLE Canada editor-in-chief Rita Silvan:
CR: ELLE Canada has a generous history of supporting the Toronto Fashion Incubator and the New Labels Competition. Why is the TFI so important?
RS: The TFI is important because it actually provides real assistance to fashion designers in the form of studio space, mentorship programs, the chance to participate in New Labels and get input from retailers, editors, and other experienced designers on one's collection, as well as the opportunity to participate in a runway show seen by hundreds of industry "influencers".
CR: You have previous experience as a New Labels judge. Do you have a favourite moment from past competitions?
RS: It's always incredible to see how a collection evolves as the designers use the feedback they get from the judges.
CR: What do you learn about new Canadian designers while participating as a New Labels judge?
RS: To be a fashion designer, especially in Canada, is such a complete labour of love. The passion and dedication that the designers show always inspires me. How many people are willing to go out on a limb today and really go for what they want?
CR: What makes a strong New Labels contestant?
RS: You have to have a clear idea about what you want to do. Some contestants appear to flounder. Does the world need another dress or pair of slacks? No!
So if you're going to go to all the trouble to make these things, you better offer something that is unique and not already in the market.
Also, while a designer has to stand up for her work, it's also good to be open-minded and really take in the judges' comments. We may not be 'right' but we will always give an unbiased opinion that you get for free. Once you're in the marketplace, you may not get a second-chance to improve.
CR: Can you give any tips to potential New Labels competitors who might apply next year?
RS: Understand that it's a lot of work to be in the competition but the payoff can be tremendous as well.
TFI Member Michelle Germain opened her store, SHOPGIRLS (www.shopgirls.ca) to sell and promote Canadian designs. Last night, she held a spring launch and while it may not have been as swank as the Pantene one, she did it right and it suited her store and clientele.
Yes, there were refreshments, but the focus was on designer and product. Designers were there to discuss their creations and the night was a perfect way to connect them to consumers and journalists.
The kind folks at P&G Beauty (www.pgbeauty.ca) invited the TFI crew, hair and makeup specialists, and journalists to a special presentation by their Global Haircare Ambassador, Sam McKnight.
Who is Sam McKnight? He’s an amazing stylist who can practically touch a woman’s head and turn her into an instant Glamazon. He shot his first Vogue cover shoot in 1978 and his hair work has been on covers ever since. He worked with Princess Diana, all the supermodels of the 80’s and 90’s, consistently works with Linda Evangelista, Gisele Bundchen, and Kate Moss, and recently worked with Daria Werbowry, Gemma Ward, Jessica Stam, and Lily Donaldson.
P&G and the PR firm MSL know how to produce an excellent event. Sure, they might have more money and resources than you might, but you know how to stretch your creative resources. They did everything right, so here’s what you can learn from them:
If you’re wondering what we’re going to talk about at the next TFI Members Meeting on Monday April 7, I’ll let you know. Just got a request from someone who attended the last meeting and asked that we talk a bit about Sales Agents. So I’ll do a bit of research and ask Nina and Anne at the TFI if they can check the Resource Centre to see what’s in there about Sales Agents. That’s one thing we’ll talk about and I’m sure the topic of fabric suppliers will also be discussed.
Looking forward to seeing you there.
I’m honoured to have been asked to help judge the Ryerson University Second- and Third- year shows and thought I should remind you about the shows.
These students will participate in a show called “Original Sin” and I believe that five shows through April 6 and 7 and tickets are available at the Student Campus Centre. For more information, check out RyersOnline.
And don’t forget to check out the Ryerson grad collections at Mass Exodus on April 8 and 9. It’s always a great show.
If you read about Fashion Week, but couldn’t attend, here’s a chance to see the Pink Tartan show next season. Visit www.lorealfashionweeksweepstakes.com/lincoln for details on how to enter.
I hope that getting great press has to do with having a great product. So far Rags and Mags (www.ragsandmags.com) received raves from:
* Nathalie Atkinson at the National Post
* Andrew Sardone at NOW Magazine
* Nathalie-Roze Fischer at METRO
* Anita Clarke at blogTO
* The TFI News team
Danielle (www.finalfashion.ca) and I couldn’t be happier with such great press. How did we do it, you ask?
My years of volunteering with the TFI, Fashion Week, and other events have definitely helped getting to know the fashion industry. After being around for a while, I have made some good friends and colleagues and know who to approach with a project such as this.
Who did I approach? Well, practically everyone I came into contact with ended up with a Rags and Mags card. I was almost shameless, but I didn’t get too crazy. There’s something to be said for knowing the difference between self-confidence and overbearing. When approaching anyone with your product, make sure that you don’t get too pushy or obnoxious. Hopefully, I had just the right amount of enthusiasm to get people interested in my project.
That’s all we did, really. We talked to friends and colleagues and gave out cards and now we have some wonderful words about our work.
A friend steered me to David Graham’s interview with Project Runway Canada alumni Carlie Wong and we were both worried by her comments about the show’s costs and how she spent money on gift bags.
Sure, I play the game Gift Bag Hit or Miss, but that is to illustrate that if you can’t produce a gift bag that reflects your brand, then don’t do it. At no time should a struggling designer struggle to make gift bags. It is more important to put money and time into constructing garments and producing a professional show.
I am overwhelmed by L’Oréal Fashion Week media coverage. Traditional media journalists were blogging harder and faster than the bloggers to make sure everything was covered. If you missed what happened, last week, I recommend:
* Nathalie Atkinson’s blogs on The National Post’s The Ampersand. She worked harder than any other journalist.
* The Toronto Star had an entire team covering the event, posting photos, and submitting reviews.
* Fashion Television provided the most and best video coverage.
They gave us to-the-minute news, reviews, and graphics that we expect from traditional news outlets. Bloggers who have day jobs and limited press access can only do so much. These journalists did an excellent job reporting on everything and made me hungry to read more about Canadian fashion.
Marc Jacobs & Louis Vuitton
How did I recover from my Fashion Week cold? I watched a documentary called Marc Jacobs & Louis Vuitton produced for French television in 2007.
It was a rare and informative look into Marc’s creative process that explains why his shows are notoriously late. I recommend this to any aspiring designer or anyone interested in starting a fashion company. It does an excellent job of showing the imbalance of 99% hard work and sleepless nights involved in making a fashion business work and the 1% glamour that goes along with it.
Survival Brunch and DrakeSalon Fashion Week Wrap Up
I almost skipped out on the Wrap-Up hosted by Fashion Television’s Mary Kitchen, but I’m glad I went.
What a wonderful idea it was to have a panel of Canadian fashion insiders discuss L’Oréal Fashion Week with an intimate audience. I was especially impressed with comments from Barbara Atkin , Holt Renfrew’s (www.holtrenfrew.com) Vice President of Fashion Direction, Marlene Schiff, owner of boutique letrou (www.boutiqueletrou.com), and David Livingstone, Toronto Star (www.thestar.com) reporter and veteran journalist.
Everyone called for a defined Canadian Look and emphasized the importance of professionalism and quality in runway presentations. They mentioned a key difference in European and Canadian design: Europeans recognize the importance of working in established ateliers before starting their own labels. We don’t have that in Canada and many of us think we can start clothing companies without gaining work experience. On the other hand, Europeans see our industry as freedom from those ateliers.
Sure, I thought this was the highest quality Fashion Week that Canada has ever seen in terms of design, professionalism, and organization, but this panel discussion illustrated that we’ve got to improve our quality to get recognized internationally.
Robin Kay, President of the Fashion Design Council of Canada, (the non-profit organization that produces L’Oréal Fashion Week), promised that the salon was the first annual one, and I hope it is. It was a perfect way to wrap up Fashion Week.
Kid Robot and Project Munny at CiRCA
I was impressed by the two events at CiRCA (www.circatoronto.com) this week. At each event, the front registration was quick and easy; staff knew exactly what they were doing. The show stage and runway room setup were perfect for people on the main floor and okay for the second and third floors. This is the perfect venue for club shows and obviously the CiRCA crew know how to produce an event.
There is one area at CiRCA that is completely devoted to Kid Robot designs (www.kidrobot.com), so a Kid Robot fashion show made sense. It was a high-energy clubwear show with perfect casting and fun choreography. It was smart for Kid Robot to have some dancers as models since they were able to move freely and show off the clothes. Surprisingly for CiRCA, the sound wasn’t that great, but it didn’t matter much because the rest of the presentation was great.
Why was an American company showing at a Canadian Fashion Week?
Kid Robot worked with twenty Canadian designers on Project Munny Canada (http://members.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewUserPage&userid=circatoronto), where the designers customized Kid Robot Munny dolls to benefit War Child Canada (www.warchild.ca). It was an interesting way to tie-in local design with a show from a non-Canadian company.
GSUS
The GSUS (www.g-sus.com) show was a lesson in knowing your target market and planning a runway show for them. The first model was a dancer who did flips down the runway and got the party started. All other models were high-energy and well-casted.
Paul Hardy
I love Paul Hardy’s (www.paulhardydesign.com) clothes, but this season I didn’t like his presentation. He tried something new by presenting all tops at once and then all bottoms.
While I applaud anyone who breaks tradition, I don’t applaud them when it weakens the collection. In this case, it dragged out the show and made it seem like half a collection. If you’re planning an unconventional approach to your runway presentation, consider how buyers, journalists, and clients will react.
RUDSAK
In past seasons, I critiqued RUDSAK (www.rudsak.com) for too much repetition and this season I don’t have to repeat my critique.
In fact, the RUDSAK show was the last one at the Fashion Week tent in front of City Hall and I’m finding it hard to critique all of the shows I attended. Overall, I’ve been impressed with the quality, vision, workmanship, and execution of the clothes. There were a few setbacks (the media lounge was too small for all the journalists to work and there were never announcements when doors were opening), but I thought it was the most efficient Fashion Week yet. Signage was helpful, volunteers and staff answered all questions, and entrance lines were slow, but smooth because they were divided into VIPs, Sponsors, Media, Industry, and Guests.
Everyone in the Canadian fashion industry seems to be growing and learning together and I look forward to what happens next.
Jeanne Beker and BRATZ present Diesel Kids
When I reviewed Jeanne’s book, (Passion for Fashion) last week, I didn’t know how brand new it was. Somehow I must have found a review copy or something because Jeanne launched the book today. She also premiered her new Jeanne B Bratz doll, who is a fashion reporter. Yes, it was kid’s day at Fashion Week.
The show was adorable, as was the fantastic media kit. It was a notepad with handwriting-style font and details that covered Jeanne, her book, Diesel, and Bratz. When preparing media kits for your event or company, you’ve got to provide enough information without giving so much that your important points get lost. I thought this kit gave the perfect amount of information.
Comrags
I’ve never attended a bad Comrags show. They’re always consistent, right down to the model walks.
From a business perspective, they did the best thing ever at today’s show: on the outfit list, they included fabric information and colour availability. If I was a buyer, it would have helped me make important purchasing decisions. I think the outfit list was on every chair, too, which is something I love. It’s not too expensive to photocopy these lists for all your guests.
Andy The-Anh
Andy’s show was another example of fantastic styling. I recommend that you check out the photos (www.lorealfashionweek.ca) to analyse accessories. Perhaps it may have been over-styled, but I want you to make that decision.
David Dixon
David’s show was late as usual, but I don’t think this had anything to do with David’s team. Every evening show was late tonight, so I think David’s suffered from the backlog. What I learned from this is that if you plan an event with multiple designers, make sure you leave enough time to clean up and reset.
What I always like about David Dixon shows is that they have very clear inspirations, complete with vision statements in programs and thoughtful slides at the beginning. These slides and quotes provide the audience with time to prepare for the show and get drawn in.
Greta Constantine
This was the first time I was invited to a Greta Constantine show and after I raved about the consistency of their invitations last week, I experienced something strange.
Last week, I received an e-mail confirmation of my attendance and then yesterday got a second invitation couriered to the TFI. I was going to write that I thought this was a terrible waste of money for independent designers, but upon arrival, I was whisked into a VIP area and was given a free drink from their sponsor, Campari. I reconsidered my critique and decided that I was very thankful that Stephen and Kirk spent that money. See? Now I’m saying great things about them.
Just joking. I would have said nice things about this event anyway. They were dealing with a late start due to tent tardiness, so it was nice of them to hold the show for everyone to travel between venues to CiRCA. They really thought about their audience and produced a great show.
The only criticism I have is that with long dresses and a set with stairs, designers should consider manageable hems. There weren’t any accidents, but it was easy to get preoccupied on the possibility of falling models rather than what they were wearing.
Lucian Matis
I was worried I’d miss the Lucian Matis (www.lucianmatis.com) show, so here’s a piece of advice: to ensure a large audience, consider a fashion show time between 6:00 and 8:00pm. That way day-job people can attend without too much of a problem.
Luckily I was able to run out of work early (thanks, Boss!) and catch the show, and I’m so happy I did. For a 35-piece collection, it was well-edited since every piece stayed true to his vision, but nothing was repetitive.
He referenced Coco Chanel’s revolutionary 1920’s designs and Hollywood flappers and showed a more refined and sophisticated colletion than he has shown in the past. Given this maturity, let’s check out the show’s gift bag to see if it matches the collection’s mood. Ladies and Gentlemen, it’s time to play Gift Bag Hit or Miss:
* Modèle CD
* Ford Models Day Planner
* Marc Anthony Salon Preferred Card (that gives bearer 30% off)
* Crest SpinBrush
* Susie Love Business Card
* Look Book (I think it’s a Ford Model comp card package, but there isn’t a company name anywhere)
* Elli Davis Royal LePage pen
* Arm & Hammer Extra Whitening toothpaste
Canadian Heart Truth Red Dress
According to the media kit, this show “is the signature event of the Heart and Stroke Foundation’s recently launched national public health education campaing – The Heart Truth – designed to raise awareness of women and heart disease.” To learn more, visit www.thehearttruth.ca.
I think it achieved this goal. With a perfect pairing of Canadian personalities with premiere designers, everyone at L’Oréal Fashion Week now knows about the campaign. As such, this is what I learned from the show: Have a very clear vision for your event and know your goals. This was a well-produced show, all the models had a great time, and the runway room was filled with great spirit.
I don’t know whether to play Gift Bag Hit or Miss with a charity show, but I know you’re curious, so here we go:
* Invitation to the launch of MAISON b at the Bay
* Heart & Stroke Foundation informational brochure
* Ocean Spray Craisins (a regular-sized bag, not a tester)
* Ocean Spray Cranberry juice
* L’Oréal Colour Riche lipstick
* The Bay discount card
* Becel Red Dress charm bracelet
* Chatelaine magazine
* Belle magazine
NADA
Nada Shepard (www.nadadesigns.com) was a TFI New Labels Competition Finalist and a TFI Resident. I could tell she learned from those experiences because she had professional, complete outfit lists and lookbook brochure on the chairs of the first two rows. Both are helpful for buyers and journalists. Not only that, but she has the entire collection online already.
Well organized, Nada. Now let’s play Gift Bag Hit or Miss:
* Fall 2008 Limited Edition NADA scarf
* Susie Love business card
* Catering with Style business card and two dark chocolate truffles
Bustle
Like Joe Fresh, Bustle (www.bustleclothing.com/bustleSite.swf) is a big-draw, high-hype show. Their crowd demonstrates the importance of developing and maintaining networks and a strong client base. Their models, however, demonstrate the importance of fit.
Bustle usually have a problem with squeezing guys into the clothes and I don’t know why they do this. It only makes the clothes look uncomfortable. This season’s new focus on suits with a slightly more relaxed fit the models better, but still not perfect. Here I must emphasize the importance of pre-show model fittings that allow for enough time for alterations. Before a show, plan for a few days of “nothing” because I can guarantee those “nothing” days will get filled up with alterations.
Joeffer Caoc
The only critique I can give about Joeffer Caoc (www.joeffercaoc.com) is that he knows how to design and present a show suited to clients, buyers, and the press. He has an interesting and important role in Canadian fashion history, so I recommend that you seek out information about him because you will learn a lot from his experiences.
Philip Sparks
You know how impressed I am with Philip Sparks (www.philipsparks.com). He does everything right; all his press releases, invitations, design, construction, website, lookbook, outfit list, and styling are on brand.
You can learn a lot from Philip’s entire vision, but something I will point out is the effective pairing of designer and stylist. Philip works with Pascal Chiarello at Judy Inc. (www.judyinc.com/pascalc/). They make a perfect team and present a consistent, well-groomed, and edited look on the runway and print. This is an excellent example of the importance of a good stylist.
Since I have a full-time job, I can’t attend the day shows, but I can let you know what happens at night. Just a reminder that I don’t do trend analysis here; I evaluate collections from business, marketing, PR, and branding perspectives so that you can learn how to plan shows for your company.
Evan Biddell
I didn’t get to see this show, but someone gave me the card that was on the chairs and you’ll be happy to know that the illustration on the back redeemed the initial invitation horror. I still think he needs to become a TFI member and drop by the Resource Centre, though. All runway reports told me that he still has some improvements to make to run a successful clothing company.
Denis Gagnon
Everything about the Denis Gagnon (www.denisgagnon.ca) show was perfection. He presented a mix of extremely wearable, exquisitely designed clothes. If you want to know what makes critics and buyers happy, check out his show at the Fashion Week website (www.lorealfashionweek.ca) and click the “photos” link.
If I had to criticize anything, it would be the late start time. Someone near me asked, “Is he Canada’s Marc Jacobs?” While the show wasn’t two hours late, it was about 20 minutes late, but I doubt that was his fault. I think it’s just what happens when you have an event with multiple shows. Last season’s start times were great, so I wonder what’s happening this season.
Joe Fresh Style
To learn about how to publicize your company, you should really study the career of Joe Mimran. Here are two articles to get you started: one in Canadian Business and one from City Life.
You’ve probably heard about Joe Fresh Style (www.joe.ca), wh