FRIDAY, JANUARY 16, 2009Interview: Renee Labbe from Promostyl and Creative Research Unit
Renee Labbe and I met on the evening of my Vancouver fashion meeting. She is working on a new TFI Guidebook (details coming soon!) and introduced the project to those in attendance. Through her work with Promostyl (www.promostyl.com) and her own company, Creative Research Unit (www.creativeresearchunit.com), she is nothing less than a trend expert. Thought you'd like to read a little Q & A with Renee. Let's talk trends!
Carolyn: What's your story? How did you get here?
Renee: I have a design degree and I split my electives between marketing and art history. There is so much symbolism in art that spills out into - remarkably - so much of todays' world of design that it has been a big asset for my career.
C: Why is it important for fashion entrepreneurs to study trend forecasts?
R: Quite simply, because the bulk of the industry studies forecasts, in one form or another. Every now and then I encounter a designer that will proudly tell me they "shop Europe" and therefore don't need forecasting services. I'm always amazed at this remark because the majority of trend services began in Europe and started out catering to European clientele. A healthy percentage of our clients are still European brands, including the runway designers.
The more sophisticated answer is that forecasts aren't simply someone's ideas of interesting fashion. Forecasts are continuously plotted directional information based on the cumulation of years of studying subtle shifts in consumer behavior and the economic, environmental, cultural, political, and technological changes that will ultimately affect consumers down the road.
C: You work for Promostyl and I know many fashionable people who believe they would make perfect trend forecasters. What makes a good trend forecaster and how can someone break into the business?
R: Time & research. And lots of both. In Malcolm Gladwell's new book, Outliers, he writes about how it takes 10 years to become really good at something. I firmly agree with this, ESPECIALLY for forecasting. It's not a degree you can get from any institution because it's not something that can really be taught. You get immersed in it, and eventually you come out pickled in trending ability. I'm in my 10th year now, and I feel like it's really only been in the last 3 years that I trust my trend mind 100%. I started at the bottom and worked my way into a Director's role. No one likes to hear this, but breaking into the business is extremely difficult, for several reasons.
The first reason is that it's a very very very small industry, I'd say less than 500 people worldwide. The second reason is that of those 500 positions, the competition for an empty spot is pretty intense...and because the demand for accuracy is so high, those who are hiring tend to hire people they've already worked with (perhaps at another trend agency), whom they know have the right mindset for the job. The third reason is there's no specific education you take to be a forecaster.
C: Your company, Creative Research Unit, produces "smartmarket". By looking at your site, it looks important for fashion entrepreneurs. Can you describe this publication?
R: Yes, but first let me differentiate between Promostyl and CRU. Promostyl does trend forecasting. CRU is more of a sourcing office. CRU directs clients to the new products they need to know about and/or consumer attitudes they need to appeal to via their marketing methodology.
SmartMarket is a periodic research report for marketing managers and those who want to match their brand language to the evolving North American consumer groups.
The last SmartMarket report was called "The Green Issue" and it was written in 2006 to help brands understand that there is not just ONE green consumer. Contrary to popular belief, there are at least four, and only one of them is buying green products out of a desire to save the planet. The others are motivated into purchase by more vain reasons. If you understand the different green consumers, you can understand how to appeal to one or all of them. A brief introduction to those consumers in The Green Issue report has been added to the Going Green guidebook for the TFI. The next SmartMarket report focuses on the consumer behavior that is evolving out of the Green Consumers. It's not finished (more research to do), but right now I refer to it as the Voluntary Responsibility issue.
C: Do you have any advice for someone wanting to start a fashion business?
R: Wow, where would I start? The industry is more competitive than ever, so find your niche, make damn sure it's a viable one, and align your brand with the right team of individuals to make your product soar. I meet so many new designers who make a nice collection, but fail to make any sort of business plan. It's suicide. Make a plan, stick to it. If you can afford it, hire people that are smarter than you and learn from them.
A BIT ABOUT MYSELF
Following a career change, I started a business, BoastToastie Design & Production, but unfortunately, it didn't last (check out the archives for the story!). In this diary, I discuss the ups and downs of starting a company, how to balance a possibly risky endeavour with earning a living, and I interview local designers for their advice. I love to hear from readers, so feel free to e-mail me.