October 2, 2006
Inside Fashion
By Andrea Macko
Toronto’s home base for rising design talent, The Fashion Incubator (TFI) knows how to do an event right. Breakfast, booze and beautiful clothes were on the menu for this bazaar-style event, held at the hip Drake Hotel. Who wouldn’t be in the mood to browse all the wearable wares on offer for spring ’07?
The overall mood from the incubator designers, whether rendered in clothing or accessories, was light and feminine. From the sensual satins at Hyphen (their theme was “nude beach” and they captured the feel perfectly) to the joyfully girly looks at Wonderlust, there was something at every point in the female spectrum. And a season wouldn’t be this feminine without an array of dresses. Lux & Luster showed short-sleeved wrap styles with pretty cutwork, while Ropena went a sexier route with thigh-grazing empire looks, and Karamea (a finalist in the recent Incubator New Labels awards) kept bodies covered yet womanly with bias-cut knee-length numbers.
A handful of fabrics were dominant: sensual silk satin, comfortable jersey, and cotton/linen, a perennial favorite for the summery season. Especially notable were the prints: a sketched navy floral on creamy linen at Lux & Luster, tiny, bright wall paper florals at Karamea and pastel brocades at D’Mila. And Wonderlust always offers a dazzling array of prints, from a wood-black floral to wonderfully tacky metallic paisley to hot tropical floral. There is certainly something for everyone, even the most shrinking violets, when it comes to spring ’07.
Aside from seasonal collections, the breakfast also featured Leah Bazian’s collection, which, until this very season, was a special-event line of wraps and scarves. What’s new this spring are dresses in gorgeous striped silks in warm tones of green, crimson and blue that are a throwback to the height of ‘50s hostess chic. At the opposite end of the spectrum is Kania, a loungewear/streetwear label done in sophisticated shapes such as a cutaway wrap coat with ruffle trim and fold-down skirts – all in great tropical colors and easy-care cotton/Lycra made especially for the label.
On the accessories front, jewelry styles ranged from the delicate Swarovski crystals dangles on 14K gold at Lorannne Kettlewell to the lavish pieces of Monikque, which can feature silk organza, feathers, crystals and semi-precious stones all on one piece – a real feast for the eyes. For those on the hunt for versatility, Knotty Girls showed ribbon pieces strung with glass, crystal and pearlescent stones that could serve as belts, chokers or necklaces, depending on length and style. Art Square went the organic route for spring, with spicy colors in geometric shapes, while goldsmith, Jennifer Reilly, went for pretty silver pieces featuring petals and crystals for a feminine look.
Outside of the jewelry realm, Morris B. showed a streamlined collection of bags rendered in simple, defined Art Deco shapes in powdery shades of blue, pink and cream. And Greenshag spoke explicitly to the make fashionista with bespoke custom shirts and novel-yet-wearable cufflinks featuring hockey rinks, beavers and money designs.
There was also an announcement made at the end of the breakfast. Lulu B., a new French wine brand in Canada, is launching the Lulu B. Fashion Award, to be awarded to an Incubator member, and consisting of one year’s residency at the Incubator to design a collection that celebrates romance, seduction and approachability – the wine brand’s characteristics. A judging panel of notable members from the fashion and related industries, Lulu B., and a representative from the LCBO, will select the Lulu B. recipient at an event planned for spring ’07.
Also, the call has officially been put out for applications for the next edition of the New Labels show, where young designers compete for promotion, media coverage and retail penetration. Deadline is November 10 and forms can be downloaded at www.fashionincubator.com.
