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October/November 2012

TFI News
A free fashion industry newsletter

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Toronto Fashion Incubator (TFI)
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October/November 2012
Volume 20, Issue 6

2. Toronto Fashion Weeks
3. ROM Goes BIG
4. Fashion Fundraiser
5. Studios Now Available
6. Scene & Heard
7. Top Picks
8. Thank You TFI Donors
9. Fashion Calendar

On November 5, 2012, at an intimate dinner for 20, the Toronto Fashion Incubator (TFI) announced its partnership with Target for its annual TFI New Labels® Fashion Design competition, which celebrates and supports up-and-coming Canadian designers. The winner of the competition will receive a $25,000 cash award from TFI supporter Suzanne Rogers, a full-page editorial in FLARE magazine, as well as the opportunity to create an exclusive collection to be sold in Target stores across Canada in 2014.

“Target has a long-standing commitment to great design and supporting the communities in which we do business,” said John Morioka, senior vice president, merchandising for Target. “We are proud to partner with an organization that has paved the way for so many up-and-coming designers and are excited to showcase such great design, while making it accessible to our guests across the country.”

It’s an amazing opportunity, says TFI executive director, Susan Langdon. “With a guaranteed in-store collection on the line, the stakes are even higher for our young designers.”

TFI New Labels® is a prestigious national fashion design competition featuring TFI members who have been in business three years or less. Since 1992, it has featured the hottest emerging design talent in Canada, providing an opportunity to meet and interact with a prestigious panel of judges from the fashion industry from whom they gain valuable knowledge about running their own successful fashion line.

Designers entering the competition will be tasked with creating a fashion line for the Target guest. Elisha Ballantyne, divisional merchandise manager, apparel and accessories for Target will meet with the competitors in advance to provide guidance on the business aspects to consider when designing their collections. After a series of four challenges, the winner will be announced at the TFI New Labels® Gala in April 2013.

The upcoming New Labels® Competition winner will take home:
* The Suzanne Rogers Award for Most Promising Label: a cash prize of $25,000
* An exclusive collection to be sold in Target stores across Canada in 2014
* A full page editorial in Flare magazine
Designers can contact TFI to receive an official application form and more details, 416-971-7117 ext. 21.

About Target
Minneapolis-based Target Corporation (NYSE:TGT) serves guests at 1,781 stores across the United States and at Target.com. The company plans to open its first stores in Canada in 2013. Since 1946, Target has given 5% of its profit through community grants and programs; today, that giving equals more than $4 million a week. For more information about Target’s commitment to corporate responsibility, visit Target.com/hereforgood.

2. Toronto Fashion Weeks
In October, Toronto had too much of a good thing, celebrating not one, but three fashion weeks.

Unofficially known as Rogue Fashion Week, the three-day calendar of events took place from the 15th to the 17th and included The Collections, as well as some independent shows. Kicking off the week was Blak.i by Diego Fuchs and Helder Aguiar, finalists in TFI’s 2012 New Labels competition. Held in a vacant gallery in Toronto’s entertainment district, the duo showed easy, wearable separates and dresses, shown mostly in black, geared to young, fashionable women “who don’t give a damn”.

Over at The Burroughs Building, a former army surplus warehouse on Queen West, Dwayne Kennedy, Brian A. Richards and Mel Ashcroft organized The Collections, a showcase of new and emerging designers that included Sid Neigum, TFI’s 2012 New Labels winner, and Label by Shawna Robinson and Natalie Sydoruk, members of TFI’s Resident Program. While the girls of Label went for breezy, carefree Californian looks in a palette of soft pastels and prints (see right), Neigum continued with his winning minimalistic esthetic that featured asymmetric hems in a mostly black and grey collection (see above).

The ShOws, a two-day schedule of runway presentations organized by Paola Fullerton, took place on the 16th and 17th at the Andrew Richards Design event space on Adelaide Street East. Featured Canadian designers included Toronto-based Jeremy Laing, as well as ex-pats Jean-Pierre Braganza, Tanya Taylor and TFI Resident alumnus Antonia Azzuolo.

World MasterCard Fashion Week, held under the tents at David Pecaut Square from the 22nd to the 26th, hosted over two dozen runway shows from emerging and established designers and three retailers – Holt Renfrew, Joe Fresh and Express. Now managed by IMG, the overall event was professional and corporate, but lacked a buzz. Several crowd pleasers were missing from the line up (Joeffer Caoc, David Dixon, Comrags and Denis Gagnon) however the media were more than enthralled with the Target-sponsored media lounge that offered ample work stations, an open bar and gourmet sandwiches. Here’s a round-up of some of the lines that caught our eye:

Arthur Mendonça
Celebrating his 10th anniversary, TFI member and Resident alumnus Arthur Mendonça didn’t disappoint his faithful followers with a sexy and feminine collection cut in natural fabrics, such as silk, cotton and linen. Brights, earth tones and shades of white dominated the colour palette for the season, while obi-cinched waists and wrapped necklines had an east-meets-west vibe.

Ashtiani by Golnaz Ashtiani
Arguably her best collection since winning TFI’s New Labels competition in 2011, Ashtiani deftly played with a discordant colour palette in geometric shapes and colour blocking. Fabrics ranged from PVC to sheer organza and textured cotton.

Evan Biddell
On a bit of hiatus due to a return to the West coast of Canada and a tour of China, Canada’s sometimes proclaimed “bad boy” of fashion, Evan Biddell (who is actually a total doll), brought us a collection of what seemed like his greatest hits from his few seasons on the runway at Toronto Fashion Week: flashes of pop-art prints, superhero hoodies and, of course, the to-be-expected attitude. Ever the showman, Biddell’s finale walk had him entering the runway with headset in one ear, smartphone in hand and eyes fixated on his screen until he cracked a giggle and waved to his avid fans.

Lucian Matis
Romanian-born, Toronto-based designer Lucian Matis presented two separate shows at WMC Fashion Week, held within two hours of each other, on the same day. The prolific designer's affordable lifestyle line, Matis By Lucian Matis, was inspired by armour and featured heavily embellished and encrusted details on feminine, silky fabrics. "What inspires me most is to see (a woman) in all her strength and femininity," said Matis. His eponymous, higher-priced, designer collection featured a mosaic of colour and prints in silks, cottons and embossed leather, all inspired by Moroccan art.

Mercedes-Benz StartUp
Montreal-based DUY by Duy Nguyen won this year’s Mercedes-Benz StartUp prize. His collection of sexy separates referenced the ’80s, and starred peplums, slim pants, shorts and slinky knits in dresses and tops, in shades of green, grey, and white, with pops of red. The award includes a solo runway show at fashion week in March and mentoring from the panel of judges: Fashion magazine editor Bernadette Morra, Holt Renfrew fashion director Barbara Atkin; fasion personality Jeanne Beker; FDCC president Robin Kay, Mercedes-Benz director of communications JoAnne Caza; and IMG production director Jarrad Clark.

Nguyen edged out seven other finalists from across the country: Vancouver’s Pure Magnolia by Patty Nayel; Edmonton’s Malorie Urbanovitch and Nicole Campre; Calgary’s Lauren Bagliore; Toronto’s Caitlin Power and Christopher Bates; and Charlottetown’s Dreamboat Lucy by Louanna and Hilary Murphy. The designers in each city were selected based on their collections and business plans. Next year, program organizers Mercedes-Benz Canada, IMG Fashion and the Fashion Design Council of Canada, are hosting semi-final interviews in Laval, Kitchener, Calgary and Winnipeg.

If you’re addicted to Hollywood award shows simply to see what the stars are wearing, you would have loved the Pavoni show. Every look from this Montreal-based line was red carpet-worthy, channeling the likes of Marchesa and Elie Saab. Floor-sweeping gowns in jewelled lace and silk were inspired by the gilt and romanticism of Versailles.

One of the standouts during the week was delivered by José Manuel St-Jacques and Simon Bélanger of Montreal-based UNTTLD. Inspired by Asian culture and Kabuki theatre, styles featured wrapped bodices, flowing sleeves and cotton straps worn as a collar or belt, evoking “ninja clothing for the modern mercenary”.

While there are many probabable reasons why designers don’t show at World MasterCard Fashion Week (they weren’t accepted, they can’t afford it, they’re not ready, they want to retain complete control over the event, they’d rather spend their money doing trade shows etc.) does it really make sense to spread designer presentations over three separate events?

While we wait to see if Toronto figures this out before next season, we brace for fashion week number four as designers Greta Constantine and David Dixon are rumoured to show their spring collections in November.

3. ROM Goes BIG
The Royal Ontario Museum is going BIG this fall with a display of 40 artifacts drawn from the ROM’s extensive collection of nearly 50,000 textiles and costumes. With some objects publicly displayed for the first time, the installation offers a fresh, new way of exploring the ROM’s renowned collections.

Among the notable items is a haute couture Dior coatdress designed by John Galliano and commissioned by the ROM that took more than 500 hours to create, a Maison Martin Margiela dress donated by Marlene Mock, an Alexander McQueen off-shoulder lace dress from the spring/summer 2007 collection and a stunning Yves Saint Laurent sequined, satin gown.

Located on Level 4 of the Michael Lee-Chin Crystal in the Patricia Harris Gallery of Textiles & Costume, BIG continues until fall 2013. For more information, visit www.rom.on.ca.

4. Fashion Fundraiser
On October 12, 2012, fashionable guests gathered at The Liberty Grand for the 4th annual Oceana Ball to raise funds for The Hospital for Sick Children’s Herbie Fund. Organized and chaired by Brittney Kuczynski, who launched the lavish event when she was 19 years old, the ball has raised over $200,000 since its inception. To further raise funds, consumers are urged to purchase a copy of Oceana, Canada’s first, national, charity-based magazine that celebrates the marriage of high-end Canadian fashion, art, photography and leadership. Each year, the magazine profiles influential and iconic Canadians. This year’s edition included philanthropist Suzanne Rogers, publicist Christine Faulhaber, jewellery designer Rita Tesolin and TFI’s executive director, Susan Langdon.

The magazine can be purchased at 95 select Chapters stores across Canada for $14.95 and 100% of sales will benefit The Herbie Fund. The Herbie Fund raises money for children from around the world to receive medical treatment at The Hospital for Sick Children in Toronto.

5. Studios NOW Available
Enjoy the prestige of being one of a hand-selected group of top talents by discovering the benefits of joining TFI’s Resident Program. Resident work studios are now available for immediate occupancy and we want you to launch and grow your fashion business at the Toronto Fashion Incubator!

Affordable studio rent varies from $400 to $500 per month based on the entrepreneur’s need to use industrial sewing equipment or not. The fee includes base rent, utilities and TMI (property tax, maintenance and building insurance for common areas) and the one-year lease can be renewed for up to three years. Residents receive exclusive 24/7-studio access and one-on-one mentoring from TFI’s executive director, Susan Langdon, a benefit extended only to Resident members.

This program, the first of its kind in the world, is open to all types of fashion entrepreneurs such as stylists, consultants, marketers, PR agencies, accessory designers, jewellery designers, apparel designers, trim and textile reps, e-commerce businesses and more.

Celebrated TFI Resident alumni include Joeffer Caoc, David Dixon, Colette Harmon, JUMA, Gail McInnes, Arthur Mendonca, Mercy, Ashley Rowe, Hannah Tikkanen and many others.

Find out how TFI can help establish and grow your fashion business and why cities like New York, Chicago, London, Milan and others have copied TFI’s fashion incubator and its Resident Program. Contact TFI for information, a personal tour and an application.

To qualify for the Resident Program, fashion entrepreneurs must have been in business three years or less.

6. Scene & Heard

Changes At FLARE
After nearly a decade as fashion director at Flare magazine, Liz Cabral is leaving the magazine. On November 5th she tweeted, “Bittersweet decision, but great plans to come”. Cabral hasn’t disclosed what those plans are yet, but it’s confirmed that she will stay on at Flare until the end of the year. Her replacement has not yet been named. Other changes at the magazine include Mosha Lundstrom-Halbert’s new appointment as contributing editor in light of her recent move to New York, and the departure of longtime art director Tanya Watt.

Lisa Tant Moves To Holts
After 16 years at Rogers Communications – first at Chatelaine, then Flare and most recently at Hello! Canada – Lisa Tant is moving on. She’s been appointed vice president, fashion editor at Holt Renfrew and joins the luxury retailer on November 26. “I’m thrilled to join a company that helped shape and inspire my career,” says Tant, who started her freelance fashion journalism career at Holt’s in Vancouver.

LBD Debuts At Sears
Known for his quiet elegance, sophisticated style and impeccable tailoring, designer David Dixon has collaborated with Sears to develop an affordable Little Black Dress capsule collection. The dresses are available in sizes 4 to 16 and retail for under $150. Four styles appear online at http://bit.ly/RP3QHt.

King Of Glamour Goes Back To School
Wayne Clark, Canada’s unofficial king of eveningwear, has been appointed Ryerson School of Fashion’s first Distinguished Designer in Residence. During his one-year appointment, Clark will provide lectures and provide advice to fourth-year students. Clark, who hails from Calgary and graduated from Sheridan College in the ’70s, has dressed A-list celebrities including Rihanna, Jane Fonda, Cindy Crawford and Sarah Polley.

Behind Barbie’s Dream Closet
Barbie®, the world’s most fashionable doll, celebrated the launch of her Dream Closet by asking notable fashion personalities to name the most coveted piece in their wardrobe and why. Get the scoop on what Joe Zee, Coco Rocha, Sunny Fong, Farley Chatto and TFI’s Susan Langdon chose at http://barbiethedreamcloset.com/behindpinkdoors/.

Toronto Lures Gravity Pope
Gravitypope has set up shop in Ontario. The independently owned boutique stocks top name men’s and women’s footwear, clothing and accessories sourced from all over the world. With three floors and 4,000-sq.-ft., the Toronto location will offer an apothecary, separate gallery space of things for daily living, and more than 100 fashion brands including Comme des Garçons, Jil Sander, Rick Owens, Paul Smith and Alexander McQueen. Along with the fine design is a fine interior. It’s worth a visit to see the staircase, which features a reclaimed 1930s glass-and-brass banister from Buenos Aires Paramount Theatre, 1920s French chandeliers and a 15-ft., double-sided, tufted mohair couch. Owner Louise Dirks launched the first footwear boutique in Edmonton, Alberta, in 1990, and added four more locations, including two clothing stores, throughout the 2000s. For worldwide delivery, you can also shop online at gravitypope.com. 1010 Queen St. W., 647.748.5155.

Titika’s In Motion
Only three years old and Titika Active Wear already has three GTA stores, the latest a downtown Toronto location. The lifestyle line offers everything from activewear bras to sporty dresses, pants and hoodies manufactured in its own plant in China. Owner Eileen Zhang sets a fast pace. She started the company in Toronto in 2009 and plans to expand outside of Ontario soon. 357 Queen St. W., http://titika.ca.

TFI Featured in NYTimes
As the song goes, “If you can make it here, you can make it anywhere”. Does it count if you’re mentioned in the New York Times? Following a feature in Women’s Wear Daily earlier this year, the Toronto Fashion Incubator made news in 25 Years Of What They Need To Know. The story also ran in the International Herald Tribune on October 1, 2012.

Plaid Magazine Stops The Presses
After a much welcome reception to Canadian newsstands and online since its launch in 2010, Plaid Magazine will no longer be in operation as of December 1, 2012. In a statement sent via email, co-founder and editorial director Odessa Paloma Parker stated, “When Plaid began in 2010, it was with few expectations above and beyond promoting the work of the talented people I knew and wanted to know more about. What it grew into was a community of readers who cared about Canadian fashion, and about supporting artists and retailers of all kinds. Our print issues frequently sold out at stores, and there wasn’t a better compliment I could receive than from someone we featured saying thank you for the coverage.”

Arnault To Be Knighted
Bernard Arnault, chairman and chief executive officer of LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, will be made a Knight Commander of the Most Excellent Order of the British Empire for his service to business and the wider community in the U.K. He will be entitled to put the initials KBE after his name, but not to be called Sir. According to Women’s Wear Daily, the recognition echoes a statement made by British Prime Minister David Cameron, who told a business summit last June that he would “roll out the red carpet” to wealthy French citizens and firms who wanted to move out and pay their taxes in Britain. Although Arnault has stated that he “is and will remain” a fiscal resident of France, he recently applied for Belgian citizenship. Wealthy French citizens pay a hefty 75% income tax on incomes of more than 1 million euros. In 2011, Arnault was named a Grand Officer of the French Legion of Honour.

Your Reebok Comes To Canada
For those looking to personalize and purchase their own pair of sneakers, internationally renowned shoe company Reebok is introducing its YourReebok in mid-November where consumers across Canada can go online to YourReebok to customize their running shoes using select styles and a range of colours. As of publication date, over 2.8-million pairs have been designed online.

7. Top Picks
New York Times Style section

Louis Vuitton's gentlemen's travel guide to London

Access frontline reports from trade and fabric shows like Premiere Vision, Pitti Uomo and Bread & Butter

8. Thank You TFI Donors
Thank you to our donors for your support of our non-profit organization. Your financial contribution enables TFI to carry on its important work of encouraging job creation and economic development in the community. This month we recognize Benefactor Wanda Ho for her generous donation to TFI and contributor Dorothy Hare. If you like reading TFI News, please make a donation to our non-profit by clicking here. Donor categories: Contributor, $50 and under; Supporter, $50 to $100; Benefactor, $100 to $500; Patron, $500 and up.

9. Fashion Calendar

Meet Arie Assaraf, Buyer/Owner, TNT Boutiques
Toronto Fashion Incubator
December 13, 2012
Bring your buyers kit and meet one of Toronto's TOP retailers! Discover Arie's take on:

o What sells in his stores and why he looks for designers with a unique "voice"
o How designers can better develop their products for TNT
Tickets NOW available at TFI Shop

Toronto Imprint Canada Show
January 11 - 12, 2013
Imprintable sportswear and promotional products trade show

BIG Dream: How a Dior Dress Came to the ROM
February 9, 2013, 2:00pm
The ROM’s fashion costume curator Dr. Alexandra Palmer delivers the inside scoop on the museum’s commission of the House of Dior’s design and creation of the breathtaking haute couture dress now taking centre stage at the BIG exhibit. www.rom.on.ca

Buenos Aires
April 11 - 14, 2013
Design conference and trade show


Bata Shoe Museum (Toronto)
The Roaring Twenties: Heels, Hemlines and High Spirits
Open until June 2012
Born in the age of post-war exuberance, nurtured by the dynamism of the machine and seduced by the lure of the exotic, the Roaring ’20s infused modern society and fashion with an energetic modernity. As hemlines rose, shoes became increasingly important for stylish women and many of the decade's exceptional shoes illustrate the electrifying synergy between fashion and design. The Roaring Twenties: Heels, Hemlines and High Spirits focuses on the wardrobe and widening horizons of the "New Woman" and looks at how the myriad influences of the period such as cinema, jazz clubs and world travel influenced the shape of fashionable footwear.

Royal Ontario Museum (Toronto)

Starting November 3, 2012
BIG showcases objects that, in one way or another, are BIG: big in size, big in historical significance, big news, created by a big name artist (Alexander McQueen, Martin Margiela, Vivienne Tam, Tom Ford for Yves Saint Laurent, among them), or, simply, carry a big price tag. They are historical (a hand-painted and dyed export chintz hanging circa 1750) and contemporary (a John Galliano for Christian Dior Couture that took a Dior team over 500 hours to create). The exhibition’s 40 diverse objects, many never before displayed to the public, span the globe. All have been drawn from the ROM's renowned collection of approximately 50,000 textiles and costumes. A feast for the eyes, BIG provides a fresh, clever way to explore the ROM’s collections. Visit www.rom.on.ca for tickets and more information.

Victoria & Albert Museum (London)
Ballgowns: British Glamour since 1950

Ongoing until January 6, 2013
Who is the most glamorous of them all? The V&A’s refurbished Fashion Gallery has opened with a brilliant and beautiful survey of ballgowns and British glamour from the last six decades.

Interested in having your event posted? Send your submission with a minimum of 14 days notice to TFI.

10. Share Your News With TFI
Do you have a story you would like to share with like-minded, fashion-loving people around the world? We’re always looking for new store openings, exciting updates from our members and the rest of the fashion community. Reach over 5,000 unique subscribers by sending your submissions or press releases to info@fashionincubator.com.

To subscribe or unsubscribe to TFI NEWS please email us or call 416.971.7117 x 21.

For a list of TFI members look through Resident Profiles and Outreach Listings at www.fashionincubator.com/our_members/index.shtml.

Get Listed!
Promote your company’s services in the Resources section of TFI’s website, www.fashionincubator.com, to a young and fashionable group of influencers and early-adopters. Are you a contractor, patternmaker, fabric supplier or retail store? Are you looking for new clients and FREE marketing exposure? Simply download the appropriate form here and send it to TFI. There is NO cost to participate; this is a free service to the community provided by the Toronto Fashion Incubator. Fashionincubator.com attracts over 7.5 million visitors per year.

TFI NEWS is a FREE industry newsletter publication sent to all TFI members and to those who request it. Please forward this newsletter to other interested individuals and help spread the word! Information is intended for interactive and information purposes only. Submissions and feedback are welcome from all and should be sent to TFI.

Editor-In-Chief, Susan Langdon
Senior Editor, Doris Montanera
Contributor: Gail McInnes

© Copyright 2012 The Toronto Centre for the Promotion of Fashion Design (O/A Toronto Fashion Incubator, TFI). No part of TFI NEWS may be copied or duplicated in any form or by any means without the prior written consent of the Toronto Fashion Incubator. This publication is distributed for information purposes only and with the understanding that TFI is not responsible for the results of any actions taken by any person in reliance on such information, nor for any errors or omissions contained herein. TFI expressly disclaims any and all liability arising out of the use of this publication or any part thereof by any person.

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