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Toronto Fashion Incubator (TFI)
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Volume 18, Issue 5
1. LG Fashion Week 2010
2. WGSN Trend Report by Doris Montanera
3. Upcoming TFI Events
4. Share Your News With TFI
5. Thank You Donors
6. Scene & Heard
7. Top Picks
8. Upcoming Events
1. LG Fashion Week 2010
Now in its 23rd season, LG Fashion Week Beauty by L’Oréal Paris will present the spring 2011 collections October 18th to October 23rd, 2010. The season’s theme, “The Style of Power”, will be reflected in the collections shown on the runway throughout the week.
Taking place at Heritage Court at Exhibition Place, installations, presentations on models and mannequins, exhibits and runway shows on the 100-foot runway offer a variety of ways to absorb the season. Video screens will stream shows in real time online and in the fashion environment.
“LG Fashion Week is a culmination of arts and culture, creativity and functionality, fashion and the business surrounding it,” said Fashion Design Council of Canada (FDCC) president Robin Kay in a press release. “Artists, sculptors, dancers and musicians have always been key players in the celebration of fashion. LG Fashion Week serves as the connector linking these communities together to best represent the culture of the Canadian fashion economy.”
Designer Evan Biddell will present his spring 2011 collection as a multimedia installation. Garments will be displayed on custom mannequins and a video will be screened to generate an interactive pairing. With the inspiration of Ken Albright from display company SEVEN CONTINENTS and an array of global materials, Biddell’s exhibition will be displayed in the reception area and public walkthrough for the week.
LG Fashion Week Beauty by L’Oréal Paris will conclude with the second Dare to Wear Love show produced by Jim Searle and Chris Tyrell of Hoax Couture and presented by the FDCC. Following last year’s immense success, Dare to Wear Love returns to the runway to showcase 25 top Canadian designer creations from African fabric. Dare to Wear Love proceeds directly benefit the AIDS-affected communities in Africa in partnership with the Stephen Lewis Foundation.
Press and industry registration is now open. Consumer tickets are available for purchase starting October 1, 2010. For more information, and access to the online registration form, visit www.lgfashionweek.ca.
2. WGSN Trend Report by Doris Montanera
What does fashion and retail look like in 2011 and 2012? Read on for a glimpse
Cool hunter Carly Stojsic, the associate country manager for trend-forecasting service WGSN, pulled out her crystal ball on September 23 and mapped the future of fashion and retail for TFI members. Here’s a peek:
The single most important driving element for 2012, she says, is the triumph of beauty.
Fashion no longer trumps function. “Products and communications are not beautiful at the expense of performance but in addition to it,” she says. We used to let function suffer for beauty, but not in 2012. Consumers are looking for creativity from everything from the brand to the retailer to the advertising. It can’t be in isolated pockets. “Taking a chance, breaking traditional moulds and risking failure will all become desirable in 2012,” says Stojsic. “Yay! We can f**k up.” But be prepared to fix it; consumers will expect you to listen to them.
In the think-tank, she says, “We have a liking for things that are obscure, odd, weird, strangely mundane and off-colour.” The idea of random images and collections, always something weirder and more absurd, is set to hit mass consumer consciousness, particularly in marketing and advertising. Consumers will respond to what’s quick and witty. Think of collage artwork, photography and simple words in communication.
There’s an anonymous artist, for example, who takes a waterfall, a meat sandwich and a picture of Tom Selleck every week and, using Photoshop, creates new collages (see http://selleckwaterfallsandwich.tumblr.com/). “It’s so absurd, people are logging in and wondering what she’s thinking,” says Stojsic. “I wouldn’t mind having a statement skirt in a print like that.” Playing with the idea of collage, there’s a retailer who presents stock in a collage-like mask that’s completely random and not brand defined. The themes change regularly. “Could be vampires eating chocolate or next day I’m riding a lipstick train,” she says. There’s massive potential for retailers who are quick and flexible in thinking and design.
Because we’re moving into an environment with less and less sense of a distinct place, we can start from scratch with new ideas without fear of traditional limits. This is an opportunity.
This consumer zeitgeist translates into three macro trends for autumn/winter 2011/2012:
It’s all about storage and lightening the load. Artists are using storage facilities almost as retail show places and the next informal retail area. We’re compartmentalizing everything and re-categorizing. Nostalgia is also an inspiration, tapping into our memories and addressing an emotional playlist. “Use nostalgia as a design tool but don’t stop there,” says Stojsic. Storage-inspired interiors and micro environments are something we’re going to see more of soon, as well as extending performance products. “You don’t have to reinvent the wheel,” Stojsic says. It can be as simple as a new glove you can use for your iPod outside in winter.
Key words: clean up, organize, simplify, strip down, pare back, multifunctional. The palette is calm, drab khaki, past-prime pastels as if worn by the elements, dark navy for depth, terracottas, browns and red casts. There’s a workwear influence. Fabrics are functional, there’s functional detailing, and clean tailoring. In contrast, there’s a little layering (coats over sweaters and skirts) of ’20s and ’30s bohemia. It’s also about modular garments, utility pockets, zipping off. Garments can be dissected and components added or swapped, particularly in menswear.
This is a luxury market trend. It’s all about fantasy versions of the self, fake looking real and real looking fake. Gucci, for example, created a handbag out of a rare crocodile skin then covered it with a rubberized treatment. The bag, which retailed for US$45,000, didn’t look like real crocodile. “A lot of people who have that money, don’t necessarily want people to know that,” Stojsic says. Now it’s about quiet luxury. It’s all about being real but looking fake by pushing the surface effects with faux coatings and unrealistic colours. We have been attracted to things that are shiny and bright. No more. In 2009, the Rolls Royce Phantom came in a matte, chalkboard finish. It replaced the obvious glossy shine finishes of luxury. Matte is going to become the new luxurious texture and finish. Think about coatings, primers and undercoats, offbeat beauty and unexpected proportions and colours.
Add elements of surprise
For women, rubberized, synthetic looks worked into exaggerated shapes and silhouettes. Exaggerated shoulders are more extreme than ever. Look for moulded silhouettes and sexy curves. Look for coatings and plastics that can provide a subtle shine and cooling rubber effect, as well as optical illusions and trompe l’oeil effects. The palette: neutrals, crimson and cerise, lilac and pink-cast matted black. Traditional metallics are gone. The new metallics are pearlized and opalescent. Laminated, ombre effects of darks create shine, not the actual pigment. Reinvent iconic design in unexpected colours. For example, update traditional sheepskin in vivid colours like bright purple to give it a contemporary edge.
This is all about seeing things in the round and in 3D. The 3D trend is so important that just as we have sunglasses, Oakley believes we’ll want our own pair of 3D glasses and plans to launch a line. Capture shape, fluidity, movement and layering. Employ spherical cutting, such as cowlnecks and parachute T-shirts. Use drape and folding as an alternative to prints. Think about the inside as well as outside of garments. Reveal their inner workings: darting, seams, facing and panels on the exterior for understated design. Womenswear colours: bitter chocolate browns, flesh tones and pretty pales, combined with bright chlorines and aquamarines, yellow ochre. Think about bags within bags.
Big picture retail concepts:
* Does it make the heart beat faster?
Presentation of product has to be interesting and connect with consumers. Look for an emotional response. Lifestyle merchandising all mixed together for homey style presentation is making the mark. Think of a festival of product and no straight lines of navigation. It increases dwell time.
* Capture audience before they enter the door
Consumers are looking for more than just product. They need to be engaged. Space in store is becoming less integral to purchasing and more about connecting with the brand. Remember when websites were about face of the brand and the store was where purchasing was? Now bricks-and-mortar stores are places where customers are immersed in the brand experience and purchasing isn’t happening as much in-store. Consider scent marketing. We know scent affects shoppers. But, it’s “not about Victoria Secret that smells like someone farted a cupcake all over the store,” says Stojsic. Think about this on deeper level in terms of interior marketing and what scent can do.
* Smart communication
Make people smile. It can be done simply with inexpensive chalkboard messaging. Use messages that engage, like in this Diesel ad which reads: “Smart may have all the answers but stupid has all the interesting questions.”
* Have a store with soul
Put the heart of the brand on display. How? Look at the Lululemon lab in Vancouver. Sewers are on the main level. Consumers can make suggestions to the design. The result is that consumers feel totally involved.
* Look to the future
This is about an augmented and shared reality.
*TFI members can gain full website access to WGSN.com in the TFI Resource Centre.
Please call 416.971.7117 ext. 21 to book a free appointment during business hours.
3. Upcoming TFI Events
Get details on TFI's upcoming seminars, events and gatherings:
Behind The Scenes with Canada's Top Designers
November 9, 2010
6:00pm A fashion fundraiser for TFI at Integral House featuring three of Canada’s top designers: Joeffer Caoc, David Dixon and Lucian Matis. Meet the designers and discover the behind-the-scenes drama of how each of their spring 2011 collections unfolded. For tickets and more information, call 416.971.7117 ext. 21 or visit TFI Shop. Generously sponsored by ACURA, Schwarzkopf, M.A.C and Wines from Portugal.
TFI Studio Tours
Call & Book a Tour!
Sign up for a brief tour of the TFI facilities and learn how membership benefits can help your business succeed. Call us at 416.971.7117 ext. 21.
4. Share Your News With TFI
Do you have a story you would like to share with like-minded, fashion-loving people around the world? We’re always looking for stories on new store openings, exciting updates from our members and the rest of the fashion community. Send your submissions or press releases to firstname.lastname@example.org.
5. Thank You TFI Donors
Thank you to our donors for your support of our non-profit organization. Your financial contribution enables TFI to carry on its important work of encouraging job creation and economic development in the community. This month we recognize the following contributors for their kind donations to TFI: Contributors: Natalia Khon, Wendyline Beaudoin and Danielle Ker. Donor categories: Contributor, $50 and under; Supporter, $50 to $100; Benefactor, $100 to $500; Patron, $500 and up. If you would like to make a donation to TFI please click here.
6. Scene & Heard
Nada Pops Up At Bayview Village
Fashion designer and TFI alumna Nada Shepherd opened a temporary retail location at Bayview Village Shopping Centre on September 29th. Calling it the NADA Pop-Store, the designer chose the upscale location in an effort to get to know her customers better. “An opportunity presented itself for me to better get to know the real women who wear NADA,” said Shepherd. “A temporary retail space became available and I always liked the idea of pop-up shops so we seized the opportunity and made it our own – a fashion-forward, elegant NADA pop-store available at Bayview Village until next summer. We are really excited about NADA retail and will also be launching an online retail store at nadadesigns.com to sell nadanuff and select pieces in our NADA white shirt collection. The NADA label is designed for real women who are looking for some interest in her clothing but needs it to be practical for real life.” At the store opening, NADA customers received $100 gift cards for use with purchase and will be invited to trunk-show-style shopping experiences for the holidays. The chic boutique will offer different accessory, shoe or outerwear labels with retail space inside the NADA store over four weeks during the holiday shopping season. The online store will open in November.
Hailey Coleman Brings Her Damn Heels To The Dragon’s Den
TFI member Hailey Coleman appears in the fifth season premiere of CBC’s Dragon’s Den, bringing her Damn Heels before the dragons. Hailey, who is participating in TFI's Press & Buyers Breakfast 2010, pitched her portable black flats and re-useable bag. Damn Heels is intended to provide some refuge for women’s feet after a long night in heels and an easy way to bring their fabulous shoes home in style. Earlier this year, Coleman, a Ted Rogers School of Management marketing major, won first place and $25,000 in Ryerson University's Slaight Business Plan Competition For more information, visit www.damnheels.com or call 416.473.8024.
Philip Sparks Launches Women’s Collection
Toronto-based menswear designer Philip Sparks is expanding into womenswear for the spring 2011 season. The 30-piece collection previewed during womenswear market week in New York from September 20 to 26 before being presented in Toronto on October 13. The contemporary-priced line reinterprets his menswear collection’s mix of suiting, shirting and casual fabrics in tailored separates and dresses and a core group of knits and denim. Signature pieces include a cherry blossom photo-print jumper, a pin-cord shirtdress with classic kimono sleeves, a double-breasted trench with an accordion pleated vent, and a buffalo leather bag. For more information see www.philipsparks.com.
GUESS by Marciano Limited Edition T-Shirt For Breast Cancer Awareness
GUESS by Marciano is joining forces with the Canadian Breast Cancer Foundation to launch the limited-edition T-shirt. The shirts, which hit stores on September 30, feature the inspirational message, Love, Laugh, Cure. They retail for $68 and 100% percent of the net proceeds from the sale goes to the Canadian Breast Cancer Foundation. The shirts are available in GUESS by Marciano retail stores in the United States and Canada, and at www.guessbymarciano.ca.
Cougar’s New Fashion Boots Go Beyond The Cougar Pillow
Cougar is introducing a collection of women’s fashion boots that is modern without sacrificing its commitment to creating boots that hold up to Canadian winters. The Canadian footwear manufacturer found a place in Canadian hearts with its famous Cougar Pillow boot. Introduced in 1976, within a few winters the Cougar Pillow was worn by more than 8 million Canadian men, women and children. For more information, visit www.cougarshoes.com.
White Cashmere Collection Opens The Polls
On September 22, the seventh annual White Cashmere Collection – Fashion With Compassion – presented its couture collection, created by Canada’s leading fashion designers in 100% Cashmere bathroom tissue. The collection also featured limited-edition Pink Cashmere, on sale now with twenty-five cents from every package purchased going directly to the Canadian Breast Cancer Foundation. This year, Cashmere is inviting Canadians to view the collection and vote for their favourite garment online. Cashmere will donate $1 for each vote to the Foundation, with a $5,000 donation to be made in the winning designer’s name. This year’s White Cashmere Collection featured Zoran Dobric, Renata Morales, Aqua Di Lara, RUDSAK, Coccolily, Orange by Angela Chen, Aime by Monica Mei, Ines Di Santo, Pat McDonagh, TFI resident designer Paris Li, Katrina Tuttle, Caitlin Power, Réva Mivasagar, Karyn Gingras of Lilliput Hats, and Shay Lowe Jewellery Design. To vote for your favourite designer creation, visit www.cashmere.ca.
Maggie Gyllenhaal And Peter Sarsgaard Join Esprit And SOS Children’s Villages In New Project
Critically acclaimed actors, as well as husband and wife, Maggie Gyllenhaal and Peter Sarsgaard are SOS Children’s Villages newest global ambassadors. Together with Esprit, the global lifestyle brand, SOS Children’s Villages will see 140 abandoned Indian children housed and support provided to poverty-stricken families. In 2008, SOS Children's Villages and Esprit committed to a long-term partnership to help children in India and worldwide. The focus of this partnership is to prevent children from being abandoned by their parents. Currently Esprit supports six SOS Children’s Villages Family Strengthening Projects around Delhi that aim at building capacity in families, improving education, and providing medical services. In Alibaug, south of Mumbai, a new village has been built with 14 family houses for over 140 children completely financed by Esprit. To learn more about the international charity organization, SOS Children’s Villages, visit www.soschildrensvillages.ca.
Umbra's Exclusive New Jewellery Line From Foxy Originals
Foxy Originals, the Canadian jewellery and accessories brand known for its fun and affordable designs, launched its exclusive collection for internationally renowned Canadian home design retailer Umbra. It is the first custom-designed jewellery line to be carried by the retailer. Foxy Originals co-founders and designers, Jen Ger and Suzie Chemel, drew inspiration from a variety of Umbra products, including the Wallflower Wall Art, Nona Multi Frame and Criss Cross bookends. The Umbra by Foxy Originals collection, for her and him, is comprised of lariat, chain and bib-style necklaces, stud and hook earrings, rings, bracelets, as well as cufflinks. “Not only were we already Umbra fans, but both brands have a strong following of the 25 to 40-year-old demographic. Therefore, from both a personal and business perspective, the fusion of the two Canadian brands was a great fit and we’re excited to unveil the collection to Canadians,” says Suzie Chemel. The two brands first connected last April after Foxy Originals won AmoebaCorp's 2010 BrandNew Makeover Contest, beating out 50 Canadian companies for the opportunity to work with a Toronto-based agency on a re-branding strategy and design. The collection will be available at the Umbra Concept Store, as well as online, at www.umbra.com in October.
MODETHIK At Montreal Fashion Week
Organized by the non-profit group FEM International and held during Montreal Fashion Week on September 28, the MODETHIK event included a discussion on ethical fashion in Canada and a collaborative fashion show that featured nine sustainable designers: Croquis, El Naturalista, Harricana, Myco Anna, Nicole Bridger, Rachel f., Ressac, and Olga Tigirlas. Over the past three seasons, MODETHIK has provided 60 socially and environmentally focused fashion brands the opportunity to make their mark locally and internationally. FEM International supports responsible consumption and contributes to the development of social and environmental entrepreneurship around the world. The group has also recently launched an incubator project on ethical fashion called ETHIK BGC, where both local and international designers can showcase the diversity of their collections to a widespread audience. For more information, visit www.modethik.org.
Evian Unveils New Limited-Edition Bottle Designed By Issey Miyake
Evian Natural Spring Water has partnered with world-renowned designer Issey Miyake, known for his innovative and minimalist style, to unveil its fourth annual limited-edition designer bottle. Miyake joins a celebrated line-up, including Christian Lacroix, Jean Paul Gaultier and Paul Smith, who have designed for the brand since 2008. This new bottle design is decorated with an imaginary, shimmering flower; a symbol of youth and the Evian signature message, "Live young." The inspiration for the bottle sprung from the Pleats Please line for which Issey Miyake is known, emoting a modern and functional design that has attracted the attention of the fashion-conscious public across the world. The 750ml bottle will be available at select Canadian restaurants and retailers in time for the holidays. For more information on the collaboration, including a special Issey Miyake animated movie, visit www.facebook.evian.com or www.evian.com.
Fashion Television Celebrates Its 25th Anniversary
Since 1985, Fashion Television (FT) has been a pioneer in fashion reporting. Now licensed in 140 countries, FT celebrated 25 historic years as one of the world's longest-running fashion series with the release of a commemorative magazine, a star-studded birthday bash, and the premiere of its 25th Anniversary Special, which aired on September 12. Jeanne Beker had this to say in the 25th anniversary edition of FT magazine about her experiences as the host: “Today, one of my biggest joys is having people tell me how they grew up watching Fashion Television, how it inspired them to pursue careers in the fashion industry. We opened a window onto a universe filled with creativity and magic, and the larger-than-life characters we profiled filled impressionable minds with untold possibilities.”
Japan Fashion Now Exhibition At The Museum At FIT
Japan Fashion Now is the first exhibition to explore how Japanese fashion has evolved in recent years. Japanese fashion today embraces not only the cerebral, avant-garde looks associated with the first wave of Japanese design in the 1980s, but also a range of subcultural and youth-oriented styles, such as the Elegant Gothic Lolita style and the Cosplay phenomenon. In addition, Japanese fashion often has a strong component of realism and an obsessive interest in perfecting classic styles. Contemporary Japanese fashion is globally significant precisely because it mixes elements of realism, such as high-tech fabrics or creating a perfect pair of jeans, with both the avant-garde and pop cultural elements, especially those associated with electronic media, such as manga (comics), anime (animated cartoons), and video games. The exhibition runs from September 17, 2010, through to January 8, 2011. For more information, visit www.fitnyc.edu.
Denis Gagnon Exhibition At The Montreal Museum Of Fine Arts
Denis Gagnon, a Couturier at the Museum: Ten Years of Fashion Design will be presented free of charge from October 19, 2010, to February 13, 2011, in the Contemporary Art Square at the Montreal Museum of Fine Arts (MMFA). This will be the first time that the work of a Quebec couturier will be the subject of an exhibition at the MMFA. The museum is presenting a retrospective of the couturier’s decade-long career. Every season he has produced pieces that master and transform materials – leather, metal, fringe – so as to clothe the human body with elegance and ease. The clothes will testify to the designer’s ability to transform inert material, whether natural or industrial, into a particular garment. In the middle of the gallery, on a high inverted pyramid, video sequences will show the clothes in action, in shows and on the street. For more information, visit www.mbam.qc.ca.
Lily Allen Launches Lucy In Disguise
British pop singer Lily Allen, and her sister Sarah, launched their vintage clothing store, Lucy in Disguise, in London, England, on September 16, the night before the opening of London Fashion Week. Before the store opened, the pair had set up a pop-up shop for a week at high-end department store Selfridges. The label offers some outfits from designers such as Chanel, Yves Saint Laurent and Ossie Clark, but some are also available to rent. "It's about making fashion democratic," Lily said. "That's the idea behind it. It's about getting really nice clothes but letting people rent them for affordable prices so they can go out and feel like a million dollars and it won't cost them a million dollars."
Alexa Chung Designs A Capsule Collection For Madewell
British television reporter and “it” girl Alexa Chung has parlayed her cool and easy style into a collection for Madewell, a brand steeped in classic casual “workclothes” tweaked slightly for the trendy set. The cutesy-cool line, which is heavy on boy-fit shorts, easy dresses, and super-skinny jeans, looks like it could have been pulled directly from Chung's closet. "Madewell totally got my aesthetic," she said. "They're also a brand that's in keeping with my tomboy, comfortable style." Madewell's parent company, J.Crew, had apparently banned employees from purchasing it, in anticipation of its smashing success. For more information, visit www.madewell.com.
Gucci Goes Social For Its Spring/Summer 2011 Show
On September 22nd at 8am EST, Gucci presented its spring/summer 2011 women's fashion show in Milan and via live webcam for the first time. Not only did the online show include the typical view from the end of the runway, viewers could also see what was happening outside the show’s venue and backstage through different webcam streams. Before the show, Gucci Connect sent out e-vites with each ticket assigned a virtual seat at the event. Users could form groups and compete to become one of a select few fans to get virtual VIP seating. They were then able to film themselves on webcam and were broadcast at the show itself, able to interact with fashion buyers and press. For show images and a video of the presentation, visit www.gucciconnect.com/postshow.
No More Chanel Fragrances For Sears Canada
According to The Globe and Mail, Sears Canada stores will no longer carry Chanel’s fragrances after continuing disagreements over the impact on payments of the strong Canadian currency. Sears has pushed to reduce payments to Chanel and other supplies, in some cases even retroactively, in an effort to get better deals for their company and Canadian consumers. “In four or five cases, people told me they will not ship to Sears until the matter is resolved,” said David Schachter, president of the National Apparel Bureau, which represents fashion suppliers. “The anger level of people who had money deducted is certainly increasing.”
7. Top Picks
FashionStake: An innovative way for designers to get funding
How fashion’s free culture has helped both innovation and sales
Win $2,000 from RBC and a makeover from Cityline! Transform yourself and your financial picture
8. Upcoming Events
october 1 - 4, 2010
Fashion trade show for womenswear & accessories
19th Annual CABI Conference
october 3 - 5, 2010
Everything you want to discover about business incubation
PAM - Prairie Apparel Market
october 6 - 8, 2010
Wholesale rep trade show
Los Angeles Fashion Week
october 13 - 20, 2010
Spring/Summer 2011 collections
Western Imprint Canada Show
october 15 - 16, 2010
Imprintable sportswear and promotional products trade show
The New Mart
october 15 - 19, 2010
Spring 2011 contemporary clothing & accessories trade show
LG Fashion Week
october 18 - 23, 2010
Spring 2011 designer collections
Behind The Scenes with Canada's Top Designers
november 9, 2010 at 6pm
Three TOP designers showcased at Integral House in a fundraiser for TFI
Interested in having your event posted? Send your submission with a minimum of 14 days notice to TFI.
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TFI NEWS is a FREE industry newsletter publication sent to all TFI members and to those who request it. Please forward this newsletter to other interested individuals and help spread the word! Information is intended for interactive and information purposes only. Submissions and feedback are welcome from all and should be sent to TFI.
Editor-In-Chief, Susan Langdon
Senior Editor, Doris Montanera
Contributors: Mai Tran, Gail McInnes
© Copyright 2010 The Toronto Centre for the Promotion of Fashion Design (Toronto Fashion Incubator, TFI). No part of TFI NEWS may be copied or duplicated in any form or by any means without the prior written consent of the Toronto Fashion Incubator.
This publication is distributed for information purposes only and with the understanding that TFI is not responsible for the results of any actions taken by any person in reliance on such information, nor for any errors or omissions contained herein. TFI expressly disclaims any and all liability arising out of the use of this publication or any part thereof by any person.