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Spring 2012

TFI News
A free fashion industry newsletter

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Toronto Fashion Incubator (TFI)
A dynamic non-profit organization offering made-to-measure business solutions for new & established fashion designers, entrepreneurs, professionals & students

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Sponsored by:
City of Toronto Economic Development

Spring 2012
Volume 20, Issue 1

1. TFI25: MAY 3, 2012, SAVE THE DATE
2. Season Three Of The shOws
4. CAFA Awards 2013
5. Guilty Pleasures 2012
6. Scene & Heard
7. Top Picks
8. Upcoming TFI Events
9. Share Your News With TFI
10. Thank You TFI Donors
11. Fashion Calendar

1. TFI25: MAY 3, 2012, SAVE THE DATE
Honorary gala event chair, SUZANNE ROGERS and the Board of Directors, Toronto Fashion Incubator, cordially invite you to save the date: Thursday, May 3, 2012. Join TFI for an evening of spectacular fashion and glamour at an event honouring its 25th anniversary. The black-tie gala takes place at The Crystal, Royal Ontario Museum.

VIP and Patron guests will enjoy a champagne reception, plated dinner and an exclusive presentation of a Barbie®-inspired fashion show challenge featuring one-of-a-kind gowns modeled by Canadian celebrities such as CBC personality Anne-Marie Mediwake, Breakfast Television co-host and Canada's Got Talent host, Dina Pugliese, supermodel Stacey Mackenzie and Corner Gas actor Tara Spencer-Nairn. A diverse array of 25 renowned and up-and-coming design talents, all members of the Toronto Fashion Incubator, including major labels VAWK, Arthur Mendonca, Farley Chatto, 2012 New Labels semi-finalist Jameson Kane, and past New Labels winners Mila Yudina (Finkelshtein), Sarah Nicol, Anastasia Lomonova and Eugenia Leavitt, will vie for a chance to win $10,000.

“We’re thrilled to bring Barbie and TFI back together again for TFI’s 25th Anniversary,” says Mihiri Tillakaratne, brand manager, Mattel Canada. “This is a natural fit as Barbie has served as muse to countless designers. It will be exciting to see what happens when TFI designers unveil their wearable art pieces inspired by the world’s most iconic doll.”

At 8:30pm, doors will open to Party guests who will enjoy cocktails, hors d’oeuvre, TFI’s New Labels® fashion show competition and an after-party under The Crystal. Who will win the $25,000 Suzanne Rogers Award For Most Promising New Label, a feature in Flare magazine and a TNT boutique-sponsored studio at TFI for one year. Four designers remain in the running: outwear labels Jameson Kane from Toronto and Patrick Larrivée from Montreal, and contemporary separates lines [blak] - i from Toronto and Sid Neigum from Edmonton.

TFI25 VIP dinner tickets are $525 or tables of 10 are $5,000. Patron tables of 10 are $10,000 and Party tickets are $100. For more information and to buy tickets, visit www.tfi25.com. Proceeds from the event will benefit the non-profit Toronto Fashion Incubator, the world’s first fashion incubator and award-winning centre for fashion entrepreneurship.

New Labels is generously sponsored by:

2. Season Three Of The shOws
Now in its third season, the shOws, a two-day, invitation-only, fashion runway presentation held on March 19 and 20 in Toronto, unveiled four fall/winter 2012 runway presentations from Jeremy Laing, Ruffian, David Szeto and Jean-Pierre Braganza at the prestigious Ritz-Carlton Hotel.

P&G Beauty and Grooming once again was on board as the official beauty partner for the event. COVERGIRL Makeup pro Greg Wencel, continues to partner with the shOws in creating the perfect makeup looks for each of the designer’s distinct collections. For hair, P&G Pantene Pro–V consulting stylist Justin German created the finishing touches for each design aesthetic.

“We are very excited about the line-up of designers the shOws presented this March. This is our second season as the official beauty partner and a key component of our longstanding support of the beauty and fashion industry that includes sponsorship of Montreal Fashion Week, Toronto Fashion Incubator and the P&G Beauty & Grooming Awards,” said Esther Benzie, the Canadian marketing director of P&G Beauty and Grooming.

Fusing immaculate tailoring with attention to detail, Braganza created a modern, intelligent silhouette sought after across the globe. London-born, Braganza moved to Canada as an infant and was raised in Montreal and Toronto. After studying fashion at the prestigious Central Saint Martins school in London and scooping up numerous award honours, he became Karl Lagerfeld’s protégé for the AW08/09 season. Continuing to capture the imagination of both media and buyers, Braganza is currently stocked internationally in over 30 stores across 15 countries, including Luisa Via Roma in Italy and Selfridges in the U.K.

Canadian-born Laing spent his childhood on an army base in Germany, learning to sew by age 13 by watching his mother. Laing's self-taught method, which combines organic and geometric approaches to pattern making and construction, was honed while studying in Toronto, on exchange at Westminster University in London, and through an apprenticeship with Alexander McQueen. In 2011, Laing was a finalist for the prestigious ANDAM Fashion Award. His collections often stem from his elaborations on simple principles of construction and form, drawing simultaneously from couture and tailoring traditions. Laing currently lives and works in Toronto.

Since 2004, when Szeto’s inaugural wholesale collection was snapped up by womenswear buyers, the Vancouver-raised designer has generated praise from an exclusive list of private clients. Szeto, who is Chinese-Canadian, is a master technician. His haute couture-style skill lies in his innovative cutting on the bias or half-bias allowing his fabric to flow with its grain. Szeto designs by hand-draping cloth on a mannequin before folding and twisting it into the desired form. The resulting smocking – hand-sewn before the final garment is pieced together or hand-shirred after the garment is constructed – is architectural without losing any softness or wearability. Szeto studied at New York's Fashion Institute of Technology before moving to Paris in 1992, where he remained for 18 years. Recently, Szeto moved to Belgium where he is currently based.

Brian Wolk and Claude Morais are the designers behind Ruffian, the critically acclaimed New York cult label. They have been featured in countless editorials including The New York Times, Harper’s Bazaar, Teen Vogue, W, Italian Vogue, WWD and American Vogue. They define style as a juxtaposition between the improvised and the studied. In each collection, culture clashes with counter culture, classic with cutting edge, punk with princess. Wolk’s dual training in fashion design and costume design has given him a perspective that allowed him to work in film, theatre and opera; a foundation in history that is integral to his design process. Morais’ extensive world travel as a model, then as a stylist, has enabled him to create a sophisticated visual and cultural vocabulary essential to his design process. His studies in the fine arts, specifically painting, allow him to explore colour on a personal and tactile level.

Announced on January 26, MasterCard took over title sponsorship of Toronto’s semi-annual fashion week from electronics giant LG, necessitating a rebranding as World MasterCard Fashion Week (formerly known as LG Fashion Week Beauty by L’Oreal).

During the week of March 12 to 16, approximately 30,000 media, industry professionals and the public attended runway shows held under the tents at David Pecaut Square. This season, makeup was provided by Maybelline and hair by Redken.

Here’s a wrap-up of the week’s highlights. For more runway images, visit www.worldmastercardfashionweek.com.

Of the 35 runways shows scheduled before and during WMC Fashion Week, three were held off-site (Lovas/Basch, Greta Constantine and Lucian Matis), one show held on the last day was inexplicably cancelled at the last moment (Oppio) and 15 were presented by TFI members and alumni (Lucian Matis, Adrian Wu, Laura Siegel, Sid Neigum, Vawk, Line, Ashtiani, Caitlin Power, Stephen Wong of Greta and Ezra Constantine, David Dixon, Saniya Khan, Arthur Mendonça and Joeffer Caoc).

For fall/winter 2012, look for these recurring trends seen on the catwalk: all black looks often with a hint of S&M as seen in bondage-harnesses, studs and leather trim; heavy lace fabrics, feathers and fur of all types and varieties.

Lucian Matis kicked off the week with an all-black collection featuring sheer Battenburg lace. Known for his highly dramatic presentations, Matis sent an initial batch of models down the runway in completely sheer dresses or jumpsuits for full media effect. More accessible looks were paired with nude slips and often trimmed with feathers.

Newcomer Sid Neigum, a semi-finalist in TFI’s New Labels competition, showed his androgynous menswear collection that featured tunics and leggings for men, layered under oversized, asymmetric coats and long jackets. The line was picked up the next day by newly launched unisex store Ruins, located on Queen West in Toronto.

Golnaz Ashtiani, winner of TFI’s 2011 New Labels competition and Caitlin Power, New Labels runner-up, both showed strong collections that referenced the success of their fall/winter 2011 lines. Ashtiani’s love of heavy wool (see right), cut into bands or seamed into shapely silhouettes, were often trimmed with patent leather or paired with draped jersey. Power favoured clean-cut separates in wool and leather matched with crisp organza shirts.

The best shows of the week were from TFI alumni David Dixon, Arthur Mendonça and Joeffer Caoc who demonstrated that creativity and wearability are not mutually exclusive. A mark of an experienced designer is one who can meet the challenge of creating an innovative design that appeals to a wide segment of the market, especially in a recessive economy, and these three showed how it was done.

This season, Dixon found inspiration for his collection from The Birds, a book by Daphne de Maurier, adapted for the screen by master thrillmaker Alfred Hitchcock. A clip from the film showing heroine Tippi Hedren and others being attacked by flocks of aggressive birds set the tone for a nearly all-black collection. Deftly mixing boiled wool with lace, sequins and jacquard, Dixon’s impeccably fitted pieces flew down the runway. A small group of peacock-hued and feathered after-five dresses added the only relief of colour to the otherwise beautiful, if somber, collection.

In Joeffer Caoc’s collection named Remix the designer brought back some of his favourite design elements such as mixing tweed with leather, wide portrait collars on plush wrap jackets and ladies-who-lunch dresses with sexy draping. Colours ranged from olive green, mustard gold and magenta to black, gunmetal and gold.

A last minute decision to show at WMC Fashion Week landed Arthur Mendonça a 4pm spot on Friday afternoon in the smaller runway room. Despite the less-than-prime time, Mendonça packed the house with fans eager to see his latest collection. Onlookers were not disappointed. Mendonça showed a stellar line of beautiful, wearable, yet still sexy collectables; arguably his best collection to date. Fitted sheaths cut in ladylike lace or worsted wool cady featured naughty bodice strappings made of leather and fur or blocks of contrasting patent leather. Brights and mid-tones such as yellow, melon pink and soft aqua offset black, grey and darker shades like plum and teal.

Wrapping up the five-day week, Jim Searle and Chris Tyrell, founders of menswear label Hoax Couture, presented the third annual Dare to Wear Love fashion show featuring one-of-a-kind garments made from six yards of colourful African cloth. Canadian designers including Linda Lundström, Lida Baday and Paul Hardy showcased their designs on celebrities such as Breakfast Television co-host, Dina Pugliese, Canada’s first supermodel Donna DeMarco, wrestling diva Trish Stratus (who literally swept a male fan off his feet) and singer Lorraine Segato of the 1980’s-era new wave band The Parachute Club. (Right, Fashion Television's Jeanne Beker models in Dare To Wear Love)

If you missed the runway show, Dare to Wear Love will be on exhibit at the Textile Museum of Canada until May 6, 2012, at 100 Centre Ave. in Toronto. Dare to Wear Love is a fundraising initiative designed to raise awareness and funds for the Stephen Lewis Foundation and its support of community-level organizations that provide care and support to women, orphans, grandmothers and individuals living with HIV and AIDS.

4. CAFA Awards 2013
Brittney Kuczynski, editor-in-chief of Oceana magazine, announced on February 8 a new awards initiative to honour creative Canadian talent in the areas of fashion, photography and design. The inaugural Canadian Arts and Fashion Awards, which are slated to take place in 2013 at the Ritz-Carlton hotel in Toronto, will support The Herbie Fund for the Hospital for Sick Children while contributing to the economic development of the Canadian fashion industry. Details for eligibility, application, nomination and selection are outlined on the CAFA website, www.cafawards.ca. The elite group of VIPs who were invited to the launch at the Ritz included Paul and Gina Godfrey, Kirk Pickersgill and Stephen Wong of Greta Constantine, David and Glenn Dixon and TFI’s Susan Langdon. For party images, visit The Globe & Mail website.

5. Guilty Pleasures 2012
On February 4, the Toronto Fashion Incubator partnered with The Drake Hotel to host Guilty Pleasures VI, a fun and fashionable sale and brunch held during the City of Toronto’s Winterlicious culinary festival. Twenty-three TFI accessory and apparel designers showcased and sold their wares to over 300 consumers at the one-day annual event. Highlights of the day included a salon-style fashion show and a silent auction featuring prizes such as a Dyson vacuum donated by Strategic Objectives, beauty baskets from P&G Beauty and Grooming and Benefit Cosmetics, tote bags by Nella Bella, clothing and gift certificates from Joe Fresh and more. The event raised almost $2,000 for the non-profit Toronto Fashion Incubator.

6. Scene & Heard

17th Annual Sears Canadian High School Design Competition
DEADLINE: March 30, 5PM

Open to all high school students at the junior and senior levels, cash prizes will be awarded in each of four categories: Industrial Design, Fashion Design, Architecture/Interior Design, and Graphic Design. The aim of the competition is to promote the study and awareness of various design disciplines in schools across Canada. For more information and to download an application, visit http://www.dx.org/index.cfm?pagepath=&id=6614.

Calling All Game-Changers
Whether you're a high-growth business leader or you've been inspired by a game-changing entrepreneur, submit a nomination for the 2012 Ernst & Young Entrepreneur Of The Year Awards. Nominations close April 30, 2012. To submit an online nomination, and for complete eligibility details and much more, visit ey.com/ca/EOY. The Ontario Entrepreneur Of The Year Awards gala takes place October 10, 2012, at the Metro Toronto Convention Centre. For more information, contact Katelyn Jarosz at 416.941.1810 or katelyn.jarosz@ca.ey.com.

Shepherd’s Opens Third Boutique
This spring, Ottawa retailer Shepherd’s Fashions opened its newest and grandest location at the Ottawa Train Yards. The third Shepherd’s is an exciting, new concept designed to combine a broader variety of products and create a lifestyle-inspired atmosphere not yet seen in Ottawa – complete with an in-house runway for fashion shows. The boutique will carry coats, special occasion, casualwear and jewellery, along with an expansive mix of home furnishings, décor, shoes and more. "After 34 years in business, I’m excited about opening my new store,” said owner Marlene Shepherd. “I’ve been on buying trips all over North America to find truly unique home furnishings and décor to add to our mix.” For more information, visit www.shepherdsfashions.com.

Masthead Musical Chairs
Orietta Minatel, former publisher of Flare, is now helming Glow magazine, which was recently taken over by St. Joseph Media from Rogers Publishing. Also new to the Glow team are Lisa Hannam, health editor; Tania Kwong, beauty editor; and Daniel Mackinnon, art director. Caroline Korycki is the new marketing and promotions manager at Toronto Life magazine. She was previously with Espresso, an integrated brand agency in Toronto. After 11 years, award-winning fashion director Susie Sheffman has left FASHION magazine to join Dealuxe.ca, an online boutique, while Lara Ceroni, former online editor at ElleCanada.com is now at The Kit as social media editor. Hina Ansari, former entertainment/photo editor for Flare, is the founder/publisher of Ramp1885.com, a new site that will cast a spotlight on lesser-known fashion centres.

Beauty Buzz
Cosmetics giant Maybelline New York Canada has named Grace Lee (right) as its official makeup artist in Canada. The talented Plutino Group beauty expert brings her mastery of the craft, eye for detail and engaging personality to the spokesperson role, and is a natural fit with the brand. Over at Essie, Melissa Stormont from Tips Nail Bar in Toronto has been named brand ambassador and worked behind the scenes at Toronto fashion week polishing a storm for several shows.

Retail Expansion In Kitchener-Waterloo
Mark Nunes Clothier and Tailors based in Kitchener-Waterloo recently moved to a spacious, upscale location at the Bauer Marketplace, 191 King St. S. Owners Mark and Marina Nunes offer men’s and women’s designer apparel and accessories as well as in-house tailoring. The owners pride themselves on choosing original pieces in a limited quantity, with many lines exclusive to the store. For more information, visit www.marknunes.ca.

The Business Of Craft
A new course at George Brown College focuses on teaching up-and-coming designers and crafters about what it takes to launch, promote and market a new Canadian-made product line. Taught by Jennifer Ger, co-founder of Foxy Originals, a successful Toronto-based jewellery company, the eight-session evening class promises to help creative types take their ideas to the next level. For course dates and to register, visit http://tinyurl.com/7fo3xed.

Target Woos Customers At Pop-Up
On February 23, US discount retailer Target opened its first-ever pop-up shop in Canada at 363 King St. W., in Toronto. The shop, opened for just one day, drew hundreds of mostly-20-something consumers hoping to snatch up pieces designed by Jason Wu, the American-based designer best known for creating the gown worn by U.S. First Lady Michelle Obama for the Inaugural Ball. Jersey tops, shirtdresses and pleated skirts retailing for around $20 carried Wu’s signature look of clean lines and modern cuts. In 2013, Target plans to take over 120 Zellers locations acquired from the Hudson’s Bay Company for $1.8-billion in 2011.

More Designer-Retailer Collaborations
In the latest pairing of high-profile designers with low-end retailers, Italian label Marni has partnered with H&M to create a modular wardrobe for women and men, complete with accessories. Eclectic, quirky and timeless, the Marni collection at H&M is composed of elegant items selected by Marni’s creative director and founder Consuelo Castiglioni. A sense of sophisticated eclecticism is mixed with a sporty allure; the accent is on the streamlined purity of design and the intensity of surfaces. The result is high on prints and spring energy, with the unmistakable Marni signatures evident in the juxtaposition of shapes, patterns and materials. To promote the launch of Marni at H&M, a campaign film brought the collection to life with a story-based campaign conceived by director Sofia Coppola. The film will run in cinemas and on television worldwide, as well as online, supported by a print campaign. Marni at H&M debuted in approximately 260 stores worldwide on March 8, 2012.

Fashion Incubator Opens In Washington D.C.
Capitol Hill has opened its doors to DCFI, a fashion incubator modeled after Toronto’s own TFI. Though in its early stages, DCFI has already set a tone of political advocacy with the naming of its first initiative, the development of a National Fashion Incubator Coalition. The mandate of the Coalition is to bring awareness and support on Capitol Hill around legislative priorities (with a focus on economic development) that affect the fashion industry. The American movement will complement the work of the International Fashion Incubator Network, a non-profit group of fashion incubators established in Perth, Australia, in 2011.

Hudson’s Bay Company And Lord & Taylor Consolidate Assets
Earlier this year, in a move to cut costs and streamline efficiencies, parent company Hudson’s Bay Company gave executives from The Bay and U.S. department store Lord & Taylor either pink slips or increased responsibilities. Gone is Lord & Taylor president and CEO Brendan Hoffman, and promoted is Canadian Bonnie Brooks who will oversee the merchandise, marketing and store operations of L&T and The Bay. In other moves, fellow Canadian Mary Turner, formerly senior VP for The Bay, is now executive VP for private brand development; American Mary Anne Morin from L&T will now oversee accessories, footwear and intimate apparel; and fashion director Suzanne Timmins of The Bay has become vice president and fashion director for both department stores. HBC’s operations include The Bay, Home Outfitters and Zellers in Canada, and Lord & Taylor and Fields in the U.S.

7. Top Picks
Be inspired! Check out free runway images, street style and beauty trends on WGSN’s new Tumblr site

Read up on the latest textile trends from Premiere Vision

How to Raise Cash with Crowdfunding - with apparel and design examples

Hiring a photographer? Use this convenient photo contract

Protect your ideas and your business by using a non-disclosure agreement (NDA)

8. Upcoming TFI Events
Get details on TFI's upcoming seminars, events and gatherings:

TFI Meet & Mingle
April 17, 2012

TFI members: mark the date! It’s our quarterly meet, mingle & social night at TFI from 5:30 - 7:30pm. Sign up today at TFIMMM.eventbrite.ca.

May 3, 2012

You are cordially invited to celebrate the Toronto Fashion Incubator’s 25th anniversary. This black-tie optional fundraising gala will support the non-profit TFI, the world’s first fashion incubator and centre of fashion entrepreneurship. For information and tickets, visit www.tfi25.com.

TFI Studio Open House
May 29, 2012

Enjoy the prestige of being one of a hand-selected group of top talents by discovering the benefits of joining TFI’s Resident Program. Resident work studios are now available for immediate occupancy and we want you to launch and grow your fashion business at the Toronto Fashion Incubator! Stop by between 5:00 and 7:00pm for a tour of TFI and to pick up a SPECIAL TFI25 DISCOUNT VOUCHER, good for $25 off your monthly studio rent for one year!* Have a coffee and meet some of the passionate members of the TFI team who will help take your business to the next level. Register before May 23rd at TFIOpenHouse.eventbrite.ca. *Offer is applicable to new resident applicants only; other conditions may apply.

TFI Studio Tours: Call & Book A Tour!
Sign up for a brief tour of the TFI facilities and learn how membership benefits can help your business succeed. Call us at 416.971.7117 x 21.

9. Share Your News With TFI
Do you have a story you would like to share with like-minded, fashion-loving people around the world? We’re always looking for new store openings, exciting updates from our members and the rest of the fashion community. Send your submissions or press releases to TFI News.

10. Thank You TFI Donors
Thank you to our donors for your support of our non-profit organization. Your financial contribution enables TFI to carry on its important work of encouraging job creation and economic development in the community. This month we recognize Contributors SMS Concepts and Flavorite Music for their kind donations to TFI. If you like reading TFI News, please make a donation to our non-profit by clicking here. Donor categories: Contributor, $50 and under; Supporter, $50 to $100; Benefactor, $100 to $500; Patron, $500 and up.

11. Fashion Calendar

[FAT] Toronto Alternative Arts and Fashion Week
Toronto, ON
April 24 - 28, 2012
Art-to-wear fashion shows and creative arts performances

Accessories The Show New York
New York City, NY
May 7 - 9, 2012
Fall/winter 2012 jewellery, handbag, hair accessories and footwear trade show

D&A New York
New York City, NY
May 7 - 9, 2012
Fall/winter 2012 men’s and womenswear apparel and accessories trade show

Western Apparel Market Week
Vancouver, BC
May 28 - 30, 2012
Holiday/cruise 2012 sportswear, dress, lingerie and accessory market

Paris Men's Fashion Week (Mode à Paris)
Paris, France
June 27 - July 1, 2012
Men's fashion spring/summer 2013/2014 collections

Pure London
London, UK
August 19 - 20, 2012
Trade show featuring womenswear, footwear, and accessory brands

LondonEdge & LondonCentral
London, UK
September 2 - 4, 2012
Alternative and streetwear apparel, footwear and accessories trade show

New York Fashion Week
New York City, NY
September 6 - 13, 2012
Spring/summer 2013 designer collections

London Fashion Week
London, UK
September 14 -18, 2012
Spring/summer 2013 designer collections

Premiere Vision
Paris, France
September 19 - 21, 2012
International textile trade show

Milan Fashion Week
Milan, Italy
September 19 - 25, 2012
Spring/summer 2013 designer collections

Paris Fashion Week
Paris, France
September 26 - October 3, 2012
Spring/summer 2013 designer collections

Los Angeles Fashion Week
Los Angeles, CA
October 15 - 22, 2012
Spring/summer 2013 designer collections

Interested in having your event posted? Send your submission with a minimum of 14 days notice to TFI.

To subscribe or unsubscribe to TFI NEWS please email us or call
416.971.7117 x 21.

For a list of TFI members look through Resident Profiles and Outreach Listings at www.fashionincubator.com/our_members/index.shtml.

Get Listed!
Promote your company’s services in the Resources section of TFI’s website, www.fashionincubator.com, to a young and fashionable group of influencers. Are you a contractor, patternmaker, fabric supplier or retail store? Are you looking for new clients and FREE marketing exposure? Simply download the appropriate form here and send it to TFI. There is NO cost to participate; this is a free service to the community provided by the Toronto Fashion Incubator.

TFI NEWS is a FREE industry newsletter publication sent to all TFI members and to those who request it. Please forward this newsletter to other interested individuals and help spread the word! Information is intended for interactive and information purposes only. Submissions and feedback are welcome from all and should be sent to TFI.

Editor-In-Chief, Susan Langdon
Senior Editor, Doris Montanera
Contributor: Gail McInnes

© Copyright 2012 The Toronto Centre for the Promotion of Fashion Design (O/A Toronto Fashion Incubator, TFI). No part of TFI NEWS may be copied or duplicated in any form or by any means without the prior written consent of the Toronto Fashion Incubator. This publication is distributed for information purposes only and with the understanding that TFI is not responsible for the results of any actions taken by any person in reliance on such information, nor for any errors or omissions contained herein. TFI expressly disclaims any and all liability arising out of the use of this publication or any part thereof by any person


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